7 essential ingredients for fading pigment

7 essential ingredients for fading pigment

By Dr Davin Lim, Procedural Dermatologist, Brisbane & Sydney

7 essential ingredients for fading pigment

Lasers are awesome at removing pigment. They provide fast & effective pigment removal to reveal better skin quality & luminosity. Topicals such as serums & creams are useful adjunctive treatments that complement laser therapies. My top 7 ingredients are-

Ascorbic acid

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has numerous benefits for the skin, including its ability to help lighten and brighten the skin. Here are some of the ways in which vitamin C can help to lighten the skin:

  1. Inhibits melanin production: Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and an overproduction of melanin can lead to hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C can help to inhibit the production of melanin, which can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
  2. Helps to exfoliate the skin: Vitamin C is a natural exfoliant that can help to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. This can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, and can also help to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
  3. Enhances collagen production: Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen, which is a protein that gives skin its structure and elasticity. By enhancing collagen production, vitamin C can help to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, and can also help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  4. Protects against free radical damage: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help to protect the skin against free radical damage caused by environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution. This can help to prevent the formation of dark spots and hyperpigmentation caused by oxidative stress.

Vitamin C can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and toners. Regular use of vitamin C can help to improve the appearance of skin tone and lighten the skin over time, but it is important to use it consistently and as part of a comprehensive skincare routine that includes sun protection.

Recommended brands: CE Ferulic acid, Synergie, Obagi

Concentration: 10-20% L-ascorbic acid

Time to use: AM or PM

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that has been shown to have numerous benefits for the skin, including reducing skin pigmentation. Here are some of the key ways in which niacinamide can help with skin pigmentation:

  1. Inhibits the transfer of melanin: Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and an overproduction of melanin can lead to hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide helps to inhibit the transfer of melanin to the skin cells, which can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
  2. Reduces inflammation: Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and inflammation, which are common symptoms of skin pigmentation.
  3. Improves skin barrier function: Niacinamide can help to improve the skin’s barrier function, which can help to reduce water loss and improve hydration. This can help to improve the overall health of the skin and reduce the appearance of pigmentation.
  4. Promotes even skin tone: By reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin barrier function, niacinamide can help to promote an even skin tone and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Niacinamide is a safe and well-tolerated ingredient that can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens. It ranks among the best ingredients for sensitive skin. 

Recommended brands: Paula’s Choice, Synergie Vitamin B

Concentration: 5-20% Niacinamide 

Time to use: AM or PM

Licorice root extract

Licorice root extract is a natural ingredient that is derived from the root of the licorice plant. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and is also a popular ingredient in skincare products. Here are some of the key ways in which licorice root extract can benefit the skin:

  1. Reduces hyperpigmentation: Licorice root extract contains an active ingredient called glabridin, which can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and age spots. It works by inhibiting the enzyme that produces melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.
  2. Has anti-inflammatory properties: Licorice root extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to soothe and calm the skin, particularly for those with sensitive or inflamed skin.
  3. Provides antioxidant protection: Licorice root extract contains antioxidants that can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage and contribute to aging.
  4. Moisturizes the skin: Licorice root extract has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and supple.
  5. May improve skin texture: Licorice root extract can help to improve skin texture by promoting collagen production and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Licorice root extract is a safe and effective ingredient that is commonly found in skincare products, particularly those designed for brightening and correcting hyperpigmentation. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types.

Recommended brands: Meladerm

Concentration: Varied. Best combined with bearberry, arbutin, B3, kojic acid

Time to use: AM or PM. Combined with other topicals as above.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a skin-lightening agent that is used to treat hyperpigmentation, which is the darkening of the skin in certain areas due to an overproduction of melanin. Hydroquinone works by inhibiting the enzyme that produces melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. This can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, age spots, and other forms of hyperpigmentation.

Hydroquinone is available in different strengths, ranging from 2% to 4%. It is typically applied topically to the affected areas of the skin, and is often found in creams, gels, and lotions. It is also available in prescription-strength formulations.

While hydroquinone is an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, it is important to use it under the guidance of a healthcare professional, as it can cause irritation and sensitivity in some individuals. It is also important to use it as directed, and to avoid sun exposure while using hydroquinone, as sun exposure can worsen hyperpigmentation. Additionally, long-term use of hydroquinone has been associated with rare cases of skin discoloration, so it is important to use it only as directed and to monitor the skin closely for any changes or adverse reactions.

Recommended brands: Superfade, compounded, Triluma

Concentration: 2-8% compounded

Time to use: AM or PM, can be used twice daily as tolerated

Arbutin

Arbutin is a natural compound that is derived from the bearberry plant and is often used in skincare products for its skin-brightening properties. Here are some of the key ways in which arbutin can help with skin:

  1. Reduces hyperpigmentation: Arbutin can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and melasma, by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.
  2. Evens out skin tone: By reducing hyperpigmentation, arbutin can help to even out skin tone and improve the appearance of uneven skin.
  3. Provides antioxidant protection: Arbutin has antioxidant properties that can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage and contribute to aging.
  4. Improves skin hydration: Arbutin can help to improve skin hydration by enhancing the skin’s barrier function and preventing moisture loss. This can help to keep the skin looking plump and healthy.
  5. May have anti-inflammatory properties: Arbutin may also have anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin.

Arbutin is a safe and effective ingredient that is commonly found in skincare products, particularly those designed for brightening and correcting hyperpigmentation. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but as with any new skincare product, it is important to patch test before applying it all over the face.

Recommended brands: Melacream 

Concentration: Alpha arbutin 0.5 to 1.5%

Time to use: AM or PM

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a natural compound that is derived from several species of fungi and is often used in skincare products for its skin-brightening properties. Here are some of the key ways in which kojic acid can help with skin:

  1. Reduces hyperpigmentation: Kojic acid can help to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and melasma, by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color.
  2. Evens out skin tone: By reducing hyperpigmentation, kojic acid can help to even out skin tone and improve the appearance of uneven skin.
  3. Provides antioxidant protection: Kojic acid has antioxidant properties that can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage and contribute to aging.
  4. May have anti-inflammatory properties: Kojic acid may also have anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin.
  5. Improves skin texture: Kojic acid can help to improve skin texture by promoting cell turnover and exfoliation, which can help to remove dead skin cells and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Kojic acid is a safe and effective ingredient that is commonly found in skincare products, particularly those designed for brightening and correcting hyperpigmentation. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but as with any new skincare product, it is important to patch test before applying it all over the face. It is also important to note that kojic acid can be unstable and may degrade over time, so it is important to choose products that are formulated with stable forms of kojic acid.

Recommended brands: Skinceuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector 

Concentration: 0.5 to 2%. High concentration predisposes to allergic dermatitis.

Time to use: PM. Can be cautiously mixed with vitamin A,B,C & AHA/BHA

Retinol 

Retinol, which is a derivative of vitamin A, can help to reduce skin pigmentation through its exfoliating and collagen-boosting properties. Here are some of the key ways in which retinol can help with skin pigmentation:

  1. Promotes cell turnover: Retinol can help to promote cell turnover, which means that it helps to remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin more quickly. This can help to reduce the appearance of pigmentation by removing the top layer of skin that contains excess pigment.
  2. Boosts collagen production: Retinol can help to boost collagen production, which is important for maintaining healthy skin and reducing the appearance of pigmentation. Collagen helps to improve skin texture and tone, which can make pigmentation appear less noticeable.
  3. Prevents the formation of new pigmentation: Retinol can help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. This means that it can help to prevent new pigmentation from forming while also reducing the appearance of existing pigmentation.
  4. Evens out skin tone: By reducing pigmentation and improving skin texture and tone, retinol can help to even out the skin tone and improve the overall appearance of the skin.

Retinol is a potent ingredient that can be effective for reducing pigmentation, but it can also be irritating to the skin, particularly for those with sensitive skin. It is important to start with a low concentration of retinol and gradually increase the concentration as your skin adjusts. It is also important to use retinol in combination with sunscreen, as it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

Recommended brands: Skinceuticals Retinol

Concentration: 0.5 to 1%

Time to use: PM

How to incorporate pico lasers & skin care?

Whilst skin care can reduce pigmentation, the combination of picosecond lasers, in particular Picosure Pro, can markedly reduce pigmentation in as little as one treatment session. Pico laser are useful in treating the following types of pigmentation- 

Melasma. Best laser? Picosure Pro followed by Spectra Nano lasers. A series of 2-5 sessions, depending on the degree of pigmentation, depth, & skin type of the patient. 

Freckles. Picosecond can reduce freckles by up to 80% in one session. Low downtime, maintained with the above pigmentation faders.

Sun spots & age spots. Lentigo, liver spots & sun induced pigmentation are all effectively & efficiently addressed with picosecond lasers. 2-4 sessions for best results.

Genetic pigmentation. It’s hit and miss, even with the best lasers. The same applies to dark circles. This is where pigment preventive skin care can be handy. 

For more information on Picoway or Picosure Pro, book a consultation with our clinical team at Cutis Dermatology, Brisbane. 

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