AHAs
| Best used: In PM | Caution: Sensitive skin, sun sensitive | Best for: Anti aging, pigment, exfoliant |
| Comments: Dermatologist’s favourite | Mode of action: Chemical exfoliant, Priming agent | Science Score: ***** |
What is the science behind AHAs?
AHAs are the most commonly prescribed acids by dermatologists worldwide. AHA are one of the oldest skin care actives, first used by Egyptians over two thousand years ago. Their source? Lactic acid from sour milk. Other AHAs include, mandelic, citric & glycolic acid. The outcome of these acids depends on the pH and the concentration of actives. AHAs can be used as part of your daily routine, or as a super strength chemical peel performed by a skincare professional. AHAs function as a keratolytic or chemical exfoliant. In high concentrations they stimulate dermal fibroblasts to produce collagen.
What skin conditions can AHA’s treat?
Sun Damage including pigmentation + solar keratoses. Sunspots can be treated with higher concentration clinical peels, typically ranging from 30-70% Glycolic acid. A simple at home treatment consists of lactic acid 3-10% in a moisturising base.
Acne can be treated with AHAs or better still salicylic acid. BHAs penetrate the oil gland better than AHAs & are also anti-inflammatory. Regardless, AHAs can still be useful to prevent blackheads, whiteheads, acne & pimples.
Enlarged Pores can respond to at home AHAs ranging from 8 to 15%. My favourite topical mix is to incorporate a good retinol formulation every second night with a 10 to 15% concentration of AHAs.
Melasma & pigmentation can be treated with AHAs including lactic & glycolic acid peels.
Anti-aging skin care routine can consist of AHAs alternating with retinoids-retinol. As a chemical exfoliant AHA can potentially increase penetration of other actives.
What are the skin benefits of AHAs?
Skin Brightening & pigment correction: Alpha Hydroxy Acids are frequently prescribed by dermatologists to treat pigmentation from conditions such as freckles, sun spots, post acne pigment, & freckles. AHAs promote skin cell turnover by acting as a strong chemical exfoliant.
Collagen stimulators: Much like retinoids & ascorbic acid, AHAs can stimulate collagen, hence why they are a popular ingredient to incorporate into your anti-aging skin care regimen. Though AHA lotions & creams can promote some collagen remodelling, clinical strength peels are much more effective.
Acne & blackheads: AHAs such as glycolic & lactic acid can loosen dead skin cells & oil within the sebaceous (oil) gland, thereby unclogging pores. This treats skin congestion, blackheads & acne. AHAs also can reduce the size of enlarged pores, which are often seen in acne prone & congested skin. Some acne products also contain weaker AHAs, such as citric and malic acids, to help soothe inflamed skin.
Anti-wrinkle effects: If you are into organic skincare & have not ventured to the Botox pathway, AHAs can reduce fine lines & wrinkles. A study in 2015 reported that 9 out of 10 volunteers who used AHAs over a three-week period experienced significant improvements in overall skin texture. More robust studies have shown that glycolic acid peels in the order of 50-70% unbuffered yield better results.
Powerful chemical exfoliation is seen across the AHA range with glycolic & lactic acid the most powerful chemicals, whilst mandelic & citric acid are more gentle. Exfoliation refers to a process where the skin cells on the surface shed off either physically (scrubs, Clarisonic) or chemically (AHAs, BHAs, retinoic acid). Exfoliation helps remove old skin cells but also makes way for new skin cell generation. As you age, your natural skin cell cycle slows down, which can make dead skin cells build up. Improved cell turnover through exfoliation can improve lumonisy & light transmission, making skin appear lighter & brighter.
AHAs. More Power To Actives. AHAs can make your existing products work better by increasing their skin absorption, a process termed skin priming. AHAs like glycolic acid can break through this layer of dead skin cells, enabling products such as retinol, niacinamide, ascorbic acid, antioxidants & pigment correctors to work harder. Note:Skin priming is not for everyone as patients with sensitive skin will not tolerate a sudden increase in product absorption.
What types of AHAs are there?
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of acids used in a variety of skincare products. Formulations include washes, serums, toners, & creams. Dermatologists employ low pH low buffered alpha hydroxy clinical peels. AHAs commonly used in products available throughout the skincare industry include:
- Citric acid (from citrus fruits)
- Glycolic acid (from sugar cane)
- Hydroxycaproic acid (from royal jelly)
- Lactic acid (from lactose or other carbohydrates)
- Malic acid (from fruits)
Tartaric acid (from grapes)
View our Treatment Gallery
Are AHAs good for wrinkles?
The benefits of AHA’s include chemical exfoliation, moisturization, reduction of fine lines & wrinkles, collagen synthesis, firming & skin lightening. Wrinkle reduction is more predictable with clinical strength peels ranging from 35 to 70%, however modest wrinkle reduction can be seen in AHAs for home use.
Can AHA creams treat skin pigmentation?
Yes. AHAs including glycolic, lactic & mandelic acid can reduce unwanted pigmentation including melasma. The majority of pigment correctors contain low concentrations of AHAs as well as beta hydroxy acids. Other pigment correctors include ascorbic, azelaic, & retinoic acids, along with flavonoids, wild berries, licorice root extract & arbutin.
Though retinol & retinoids can be useful for pigmentation, there are FAR better options, namely HQ, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, #azelaic acid, & botanicals such as licorice root extract & bearberry extract. There’s a lot of marketing behind vitamin A, especially #retinol & pigmentation.
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👉The Problem: retinoids can reduce your skin’s threshold for irritation, meaning in some cases an irritant dermatitis can prevent the patient from using more effective pigment inhibitors, hence I am not a fan of the widely prescribed triple therapy. I prefer to titrate over time & introduce retinoids gradually, especially during the rotational phases
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👉📝How to start? Gradually. One night per week (especially if you are using other topicals which may irritate your skin), increase application of retinoid/retinol by one night per week, obviously titrating as tolerated
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💯👌🏻Practical tips: get your sunscreen application right before even thinking about products/brands. The rate limiting factor is photoprotection, not OTC products
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📍Brisbane: For simple cases of pigmentation & melasma, consult the nurses at @cutis_dermatology
📍Sydney: Clinic in the build stages; projected opening March 2024.
📧Expression of interest for consultations opening shortly. Limit of 10 new pigment patients per week
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🤖Skincare advice: currently writing an AI based Q&A based upon a distilled evidence based medicine, coming out in 3 weeks
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney🇦🇺
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#pigmentation #melasmatips #melasma #retinol #retinoids #skincaretips #melasmapigmentation #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic
Green tea & the fuzzy bits of skin care 🍵
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👉Anti Aging: Protection against UV damage: Green tea contains antioxidants & free radical scavengers, protecting your DNA & collagen. In reality you are better off with topicals such as vitamin C & ferulic acid
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👉Acne: Catechins & polyphenols are antibacterial & anti-inflammatory in nature. Reduces sebum production (oil), adding to antiacne effects & can potentially reduce enlarged pores. Many better ways to treat acne
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👉Dark circles: Caffeine found in green tea acts as a vasoconstrictor, modulating blood flow under the eyes. You can’t get cheaper eye rejuvenation than using 2 tea bags under your eyes
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👉Oily skin: Green tea has been shown to reduce sebum or oil production in laboratory conditions. Thus it can be a useful adjunct to medically prescribed retinoids, in theory
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👉Inflamed Skin; Green Tea can calm down inflamed & angry skin. Inflammatory skin conditions include rosacea, acne, psoriasis & dermatitis. Want some results? Chuck some topical steroid
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👉Drink tea for the taste & the potential systemic benefits. If you are serious about skincare, there are far better alternatives
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#drdavinlim #dermatologistbrisbane #organicskincare #ecoskincare #greentea #tealife #teabagadermatologist #tea #healthytea
Hydroquinone remains as one of the most popular pigment inhibitors. It is still the most effective treatment for pigmentation including melasma, post acne pigment & as a bleaching cream in many Asian & African countries. Hydroquinone was made famous by Michael Jackson, who overdosed on this (as well as propofol).
Concentrations range from 2% to 8% or higher. In Australia this can be purchased over the counter with concentrations of 2% or less. Countries in Asia such as Japan, & many African countries ban the trade & sale of HQ.
Safety concerns are founded by murine studies (rats). Not substantiated. Biggest concerns are, firstly contact dermatitis with higher concentrations, tachyphylaxis (stops working) & exogenous ochronosis (hyperpigmentation instead of fading pigment). Majority of side effects can be mitigated with appropriate use & monitoring. Most dermatologists will limit its use to 3 to 6 months maximum. We rotate other pigment inhibitors such as arbutin, ascorbic acid, licorice root, soy, flavonoids, bearberries, cranberries, & exfoliants such as AHAs.
Accurate titration and application of hydroquinone will reduce side effects and maximise its use.
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Dr Davin Lim@drdavinlim
@101.skin
Brisbane, Australia
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#hydroquinone #postinflammatorypigmentation #melasma #pigmenttreatment #Skincare #skin #skincaretips #hydroquinonetips
For patients @cutis_dermatology, be guided by the dermal therapist or nurse assigned to your case🙏🏼
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Here’s how to incorporate retinol into your skin care regime:
The best time to use retinol is in the evening as this molecule is sun sensitive. Start every second night for the first fortnight, & increase as tolerated.
Retinoids can reduce outbreaks of acne, but it can take around 3 months to work.
Step 1: Wash your face with a bland formulation. Do not use skin care acids such as glycolic, lactic or salicylic acids prior to using retinol, as interactions can occur.
Step 2: Wait a few minutes until your skin is completely dry. This is important, because if your skin is still damp, the retinol will be able to absorb more deeply into your skin and might cause irritation.
Step 3: Take a pea-size amount of your retinol and apply with your fingertips in upward and outward motions. If you are unsure how your skin will react, conduct a test patch. This means to try application of a small amount of retinol to the front or the back of your ear.
Step 4: Finish with your moisturizer 30 minutes after application of your ‘actives.’
Step 5: Remember to rise & clean your face in the morning. You should apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen the morning after, as retinol makes skin more sensitive to the sun.
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👍🏻👀Advanced: DO NOT TRY THIS unless you have an understanding of your skin’s threshold.
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Who should not use retinol?
People with sensitive skin, including those who suffer from rosacea, dermatitis, or eczema should initiate retinol with absolute caution. For this skin type, consider starting with niacinamide, then retinol as vitamin B is less irritant compared to vitamin A.
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane 🇦🇺
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#retinol #retinoids #tretinoin #Skincare #skincaretips #dermatologist #dermatologisttips #glowingskin #acne #acneskincare #retinolguide
🙄 How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids! Keep reading & share if you find this post useful 😄
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) include #glycolicacid #lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid.
AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’ 🍊 historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active.
🧽 Salicylic acid (BHA) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin.
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, #melasma, #freckles, #sundamage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: #blackheads, #whiteheads, #congestedskin, #acne, #pimples #oilyskin
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🎬 Action: Shop my favourite cosmeceutical ranges on @theformulated
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⚠️Caution:Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution.
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of #cosmeticpeels performed by #dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35%, 50% then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients 👌
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology @theformulated
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Don't forget the sunscreen 🌞
Use this cheat sheet to help you navigate the back of bottles! What can be paired together?
It is only a guide as exceptions to the rule applies💯
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📈📉Think of this as what is represented on a bell curve, those who have sensitive skin will lie at opposite ends of the bell curve compared to those with resilient skin
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👉An example of resilient skin combinations include #tretinoin or #adapalene & AHAs or BHAs. Skin care acids can increase the absorption of retinoids, amplifying their effects. Conversely they can increase unwanted side effects such as skin irritation, flaking & stinging
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👉An example of a sensitive skin combination is adapalene with ascorbic acid. For those who lie at the end of the bell curve, this combination can be a problem. Just a topical retinoid alone can give rise to skin irritation. Combining it with a low pH formulation of say 10-20% L-ascorbic acid can markedly increase skin irritation.
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🏠Take Home Message: Use this guide as a guide. Listen to your skin & modify your topical accordingly
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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@cutis_dermatology
#skincare #skincarescience #skinscience #retinol #acneskincare #acnecure #acnetips #acneskincaretips #AHA #BHA #skincareacids #vitaminc #drdavinlim
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves lasering, cutting, deep peeling & injectables. I don’t do medical work, including #skincareadvice. The latter is given by our nurses & dermal therapist in the clinic
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If you have sensitive skin, it often takes several visits to a dermatologist to understand your skin barrier function & your skin’s threshold. In some cases they may order skin allergy testing to rule out contact dermatitis.
When it comes to Retinol, are you a beginner or ready for more? What is YOUR favourite product?
Comment below👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
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🔬Skin Science: For first time users or those with sensitive skin, start with a lower concentration of #retinol, or a precursor such as retinyl palmitate. The more steps it takes to convert to retinoic acid, the more gentle on the skin (as a general rule). HPC or hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an exception. This compound can potentially be more powerful than retinol without the side effects of retinoic acid. Understanding YOUR skin’s irritant threshold is super important. The earlier you understand this, the faster you can progress in your skincare journey
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👀📝Brands: There are literally hundreds of brands out there. My take? For more powerful formulations choose a serum. #Skinceuticals make great formulations, medium budget #Obagi, whilst #Murad makes great retinol (Youth Renewal Night Cream) for more sensitive skin
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🎯Precision over Power: Concentrate on precise application over powerful formulations- at least in the beginning. Once you understand how retinoids work & how your skin reacts, THEN explore other options
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🏎Advanced: Yes, combining AHA, BHA & physical exfoliation with retinoids is not a good idea. Advanced uses can ‘prime’ the skin by enhancing the efficacy of actives. DON’T try this if you don’t know your skin’s irritant threshold, nor how to salvage retinoid dermatitis/irritant dermatitis. I will do a video on this in the next 2 weeks
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😁Disclaimer: My work is procedural only. For skin care advice I will pass you to my team @cutis_dermatology
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#dermalscience #dermaltherapy #skincaretips #skincarescience #nofilte #skinrejuvenation #skincareroutine #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #brisbanedermatologist #beautytips #retinoltips #retinoidtips #retinolskincare #retinolskincaretips #theformulated
Your skin barrier function is one of the most critical parts of your skin health.
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🔬Skin Science: Your skin is super efficient at keeping out infection as well as irritants & molecules that can predispose to skin allergies. The outermost layer of your skin, known as the stratum corneum is the first line of defence. Skin barrier function can be disrupted in conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema), acne, rosacea, as well as self-inflicted causes such as over-exfoliation.
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👍🏻👀Repair: Simplify to amplify. Stop ALL your skincare products, yes, that includes sunscreen (only for a few days). Halt all your skincare actives, including your #retinol #retinoids, #ascorbic acid, #AHAs, #BHAs & harsh cleansers. In most cases barrier function can be re-established in 2-5 days, longer if you have dermatitis, rosacea or other skin conditions. In some cases a medical #dermatologist can guide you
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🤔🛒Ingredients to help barrier function: Include hyaluronic acid, squalene, ceramides, tocopherol & linoleic acid. The first #skincare active you should use once barrier function is established, is niacinamide
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🐟🛢Diet: some evidence that supplementation with omega fatty acids can help
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@the.formulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#dermatoloigstbrisbane #skinscience #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #acne #rosacea #niacinamide #skinbarrier #skinbarrierfunction #skincaretips #skinhealth #healthyskin #organicskincare #skincareroutine #drdavinlim #sensitiveskin #sensitiveskincare
What is niacinamide?
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Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is the go-to skin care active if you have rosacea &/or sensitive skin.
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This molecule can be combined with most actives. The action of this vitamin can give the following benefits to your skin.
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- Reduce inflammation & redness (blotchy skin)
- Reduce pigmentation from conditions such as melasma
- Establish barrier function in patients with dermatitis & eczema
- Offers modest immune function regulation from UV damage
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Dr Davin Lim,
Dermatologist AUS 🇦🇺
@Cutis_dermatology @theformulated
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#skincare #skincaretips #retinol #retinoid #dermatologist #tretinoin #dermatologistbrisbane #niacinamide #niacinamidetips #howto #skinroutine
How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids, read more & share if you find this post useful
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acids, (AHAs) include #glycolicacid#lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid. AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’🍊, historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids.🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active. Salicylic acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, melasma, sun damage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: blackheads, whiteheads, congested skin, acne, pimples and oily skin
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✅AHA/BHA: Fence sitting on this one. #enlargedpores; combination can exfoliate the surface (AHA), and penetrate into the oil glands (BHA).
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💯Recommended products: Bang for buck, you can’t go past The Ordinary. Their range of #AHAs and #BHAs provide skincare full of active ingredients at a reasonable price. Rationale AHA is also excellent, whist Neostrata provides great AHA formulations. Neutrogena Oil Free scrub contains salicylic acid. The formulation really comes down to personal preference. .
⚠️Caution: Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of cosmetic peels performed by dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35,50 then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients.
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology
Bris Vegas, 🇦🇺
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#melasma #sundamage #blackheads #whiteheads #congestedskin #acne #pimples #oilyskin #dermatologists #Skincare #skincaretips #dermatologytips
6 ingredients perfect for hyperpigmentation
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☀️Firstly, sunscreen use can reduce pigmentation by up to 50%. Get it, use it. Use it properly before spending $$$ on other products
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🌾Azelaic acid: derived from wheat, great ingredient if you have sensitive skin
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🍊Ascorbic acid: multi-tasker, pigment inhibitor, anti-oxidant & builds collagen. Caution if you have sensitive skin
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👀Kojic acid: awesome when combined with arbutin, citric acid, & botanical pigment correctors, caution in high concentrations (contact dermatitis)
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🌻Arbutin: found in many pigment correctors, naturally good (beta), alpha is lab made, converts to HQ, concentration regulated in most countries
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🧪Hydroquinone: the big daddy of pigment correctors. For every month of use, give at least 2 weeks break. Example: 3 month use, at least 6 week break. Treat with respect, irritant contact dermatitis, tachyphylaxis (stops working), ochronosis (pigment gets worse
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👍🏻Niacinamide: anti-inflammatory, pigment corrector, great for sensitive skin. 5-20%, often combined with other key ingredients
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🎬Action: if you are struggling with pigment, see my nurses at Cutis Dermatology. They are awesome at correcting pigmentation- FAST
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane 🇦🇺
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#pigmentation #melasma #pigmentcorrectors #pigmentationcure #melasma #drdavinlim
#dermatologistbrisbane #brisbanedermatologist #pigmentationcorrectors #pigmentationskincare #arbutin #azelaicacid
Skin barrier function is critical for skin health
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🔬Skin Science: Your skin is super efficient at keeping out infection as well as irritants & molecules that can predispose to skin allergies. The outermost layer of your skin, known as the stratum corneum is the first line of defence. Skin barrier function can be disrupted in conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema), acne, rosacea, as well as self-inflicted causes such as over-exfoliation
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👍🏻👀Repair: Simplify to amplify. Stop ALL your skincare products, yes, that includes sunscreen (only for a few days). Halt all your skincare actives, including your #retinol #retinoids, #ascorbic acid, #AHAs, #BHAs & harsh cleansers. In most cases barrier function can be re-established in 2-5 days, longer if you have dermatitis, rosacea or other skin conditions. In some cases a medical #dermatologist can guide you
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🤔🛒Ingredients to help barrier function: Include hyaluronic acid, squalene, ceramides, tocopherol & linoleic acid. The first #skincare active you should use once barrier function is established, is niacinamide
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🐟🛢Diet: some evidence that supplementation with omega fatty acids can help
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@the.formulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#skinbarrier #skinbarrierfunction #skincaretips #skinhealth #healthyskin #organicskincare #skincareroutine #drdavinlim #sensitiveskin #sensitiveskincare #dermatoloigstbrisbane #skinscience #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #acne #rosacea #niacinamide
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist. I cut, lase, peel, fill, inject. For medical conditions including managing sensitive skin, my colleagues @cutis_dermatology can assist.
For skincare advice my clinical team of nurses & dermal therapist will guide you. 👌🏻
What do you think of this order? How do you layer products? Comment below!
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🔬Skin Science: Why is getting the order correct so important? Firstly penetration of skincare actives. An example is application of water based products over an oil based solution will markedly reduce penetration of the former. Efficacy is hence compromised. On the flipside, applying serums on top of an oil based solution can leave your skin dry & ‘dehydrated’
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👍🏻Apply thinnest to thickest, light to heavy. Start off with toners, & serums, followed by lotions, creams & then oils
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💦Water based before oil based
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📈Lowest pH to highest pH
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🛒Pick & Choose: Not everyone requires a TONER or an EYE CREAM. If you use a product, make sure it is for a PURPOSE. IMO most people can skip skin eye creams, however if you suffer from say, sensitive eyes, using a paraffin based cream can reduce skin irritation. Conversely if you have #darkcircles due to vascular changes, then a caffeine - argan oil - vitamin K - peptide - hyaluronic acid based eye cream maybe indicated
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🧴Serums vs creams: Serums have more potential to deliver high concentrations of skin care actives such as #retinol, #ascrobicacid, ferulic acid, vitamin E, & skin care acids. In some cases, serums may not be tolerated on sensitive skin. In this situation using a CREAM Based formulation maybe better
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😎Davin Lim
Brisbane🇦🇺
@drdavinlim @cutis_dermatology
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#skinscience #beautyscience #dermatologist #brisbanedermatologist #drdavinlim #skincareguide #skincaretips #skincareroutine #skincarelayering #skincarecommunity #dermatologytips
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Disclaimer: My work is entirely procedural ( cut, lase, peel, inject etc…)- skin care advice is provided by my clinical staff. If you have complex skin issues such as acne, rosacea, eczema, sensitive skin, dry skin, possible contact dermatitis & allergies, please contact @cutis_dermatology to arrange a consultation with one of my medical colleagues
5 No BS tips that every dermatologist will agree upon. Save yourself that consult fee💰
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🗂Know your skin’s threshold: This is the number one tip. Everyone will have a different threshold, exceed this & your skin will be irritated. By understanding your limits, you will understand what you can, or cannot tolerate. #retinol/#retinoid, & vitamin C- #ascorbicacid are prime examples. Some patients can only tolerate once a week application, others nightly. Think before you buy
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🔎Be precise with your skin care: A skincare regime has a goal, what do you want to achieve? Focus on the goal & work to it. As with a threshold, each active product you apply has the potential of lowering your threshold, this means if you exceed your threshold, subsequent actives may potentially cause skin irritation. Think before you apply
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✔Cleanse: Twice a day only, any more and you may develop irritant dermatitis (then you need to see a dermatologist to fix that up). Let your skin breathe, don’t sleep with make up or you will clog up your #pores. If you have #sensitiveskin, skip the exfoliation, toners & acids
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😛Sugar is not your skin’s friend: Besides it’s gonna make you fat. High glycemic index treats can worsen #acne & #oilyskin
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🌞Sunscreen is never overrated: Cornerstone of #skincare. Invest in a sunscreen that you actually like & use it. Frequently. Don’t skim on the amount. ¾ teaspoon face & neck. Twice a day. Not negotiable. Don’t be SPF tightarse
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💬Bonus tip: Don’t smoke. In Oz a pack of durries will cost ya over 40 bucks. Think how much #botox & #juvederm you can afford if you quit. Re-invest this with procedures that actually work. Health skin, no heart attacks, no stroke, no cancer, can you ask for more?
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😎Davin’s Protip: Your skincare need not be complex, simple works. Be precise, know your goals, know your threshold, don’t be impulsive with your product selection. Buy me a coffee, I just saved you a consult fee
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Dr Davin Lim @Cutis_dermatology
BrisVegas 🇦🇺
#dermatologist
#healthyskin #instaskincare #loveskincare #skincareaddict #skincarecommunity #skincarejunkie #skincareguru #sunscreen #dermatologist
Did you know that acne has certain patterns? There are overlapping patterns, however this face map is pretty accurate
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👉Hairline acne can be due to products. It can also be due to occlusion & friction, namely acne mechanica
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👉T Zone acne is common, especially in those with really oily skin, known as seborrhoea
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👉Cheeks can be involved with all forms of acne, from #maskne through to acne rosacea
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👉Dots around the mouth & nose area is common with perioral dermatitis
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👉Jawline acne is suggestive of hormonal imbalance, either endocrine, intracrine or both
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👉Ears are involved in acne inversa or hidradenitis suppurativa
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🎬Action: Be guided by your dermatologist as to the correct treatments for your acne
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
@101.skin
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, I do not prescribe- treat acne. For management please see my colleagues @cutis_dermatology
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#acnetips #acnetreatment #zits #zitcure #nomorezits #pimples #pimpletreatment #pimplecream #retinol #skincaretips #skincarescience #skincareroutine #acneskincare #dermatologistbrisbane #drdavinlim #rosacea #skinscience
Are you a beginner, intermediate or advanced retinol-retinoid user? What is YOUR favourite product?
Comment below👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
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🔬Skin Science: For first time users or those with sensitive skin, start with a lower concentration of #retinol, or a precursor such as retinyl palmitate. The more steps it takes to convert to retinoic acid, the more gentle on the skin (as a general rule). HPC or hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an exception. This compound can potentially be more powerful than retinol without the side effects of retinoic acid. Understanding YOUR skin’s irritant threshold is super important. The earlier you understand this, the faster you can progress in your skincare journey
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👀📝Brands: There are literally hundreds of brands out there. My take? For more powerful formulations choose a serum. #Skinceuticals make great formulations, medium budget #Obagi, whilst #Murad makes great retinol (Youth Renewal Night Cream) for more sensitive skin
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🎯Precision over Power: Concentrate on precise application over powerful formulations- at least in the beginning. Once you understand how retinoids work & how your skin reacts, THEN explore other options
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🏎Advanced: Yes, combining AHA, BHA & physical exfoliation with retinoids is not a good idea. Advanced uses can ‘prime’ the skin by enhancing the efficacy of actives. DON’T try this if you don’t know your skin’s irritant threshold, nor how to salvage retinoid dermatitis/irritant dermatitis. I will do a video on this in the next 2 weeks
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😁Disclaimer: My work is procedural only. For skin care advice I will pass you to my team @cutis_dermatology
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
#dermalscience #dermaltherapy #skincaretips #skincarescience #nofilte #skinrejuvenation #skincareroutine #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #brisbanedermatologist #beautytips #retinoltips #retinoidtips #retinolskincare #retinolskincaretips #theformulated
🙄 How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids! Keep reading & share if you find this post useful 😄
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) include #glycolicacid #lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid.
AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’ 🍊 historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active.
🧽 Salicylic acid (BHA) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin.
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, #melasma, #freckles, #sundamage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: #blackheads, #whiteheads, #congestedskin, #acne, #pimples #oilyskin
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🎬 Action: Shop my favourite cosmeceutical ranges on @theformulated
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⚠️Caution:Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution.
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of #cosmeticpeels performed by #dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35%, 50% then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients 👌
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Dr Davin Lim @cliniccutis @theformulated
Brisbane 🇦🇺
Have a safe weekend
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Don't forget the sunscreen 🌞
Not a complete list, but my most ‘prescribed’ in the context of cosmetics/aesthetic dermatology
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🔬A dermatologist ‘A’ list to #getshitdone goes something like: Corticosteroids, emollients,( petrolatum, glycerin), tacrolimus, 5 fluorouracil, #retinoids, terbinafine, crude coal tar, LPC /liquor picis carbonis, metronidazole, ivermectin, salicylic, lactic acids and more. You won’t find fluffy niacinamide, caffeine or botanical extracts in our daily prescribing habits. Ginseng, herbs & niacinamide ain’t going to fix your acne or skin inflammation
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👉Commercial skin care: caters for the joy of self-care, it’s fun. Nothing wrong with aloe vera, tea tree oil & plant extracts- just as long as you don’t get allergic contact dermatitis from it
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👍🏻Exceptions: Yes, I do prescribe fluffy stuff such as licorice root extracts, arbutin, bearberry extracts, citric acid, retinol & hydroxypinacolone retinoate, but that is mainly during the ‘cycling off phase’ for more potent topical applications. Fluff is still useful in some situations, even if it has a placebo effect💯
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#drdavinlim #davinlim #dermatologist #brisbanedermatology #hyaluronicacid #skincare
#bestskincare #skincaretips #skincarescience #skincareingredients #retinol #vitaminc #niacinamide
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Disclaimer: My work is entirely procedural (I cut, lase, do deep peels, & inject), for skincare advice please consult your dermatologist or skincare expert
Sebborheic dermatitis affects about 11% of the population and is super easy to treat!
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#dermatitis #Sebborheicdermatitis #dermatologistbrisbane #dermatologist #dermatolgy #Skincare #skincaretips #redness #eczema #flakyskin #dandruffremoval #dandruff #dryskin
This cheat sheet can help you navigate ingredient lists as to what can be paired together, it is only a guide as exceptions to the rule applies💯
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📈📉Think of this as what is represented on a bell curve, those who have sensitive skin will lie at opposite ends of the bell curve compared to those with resilient skin
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👉An example of resilient skin combinations include #tretinoin or #adapalene & AHAs or BHAs. Skin care acids can increase the absorption of retinoids, amplifying their effects. Conversely they can increase unwanted side effects such as skin irritation, flaking & stinging
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👉An example of a sensitive skin combination is adapalene with ascorbic acid. For those who lie at the end of the bell curve, this combination can be a problem. Just a topical retinoid alone can give rise to skin irritation. Combining it with a low pH formulation of say 10-20% L-ascorbic acid can markedly increase skin irritation.
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🏠Take Home Message: Use this guide as a guide. Listen to your skin & modify your topical accordingly
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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@cutis_dermatology
#skincare #skincarescience #skinscience #retinol #acneskincare #acnecure #acnetips #acneskincaretips #AHA #BHA #skincareacids #vitaminc #drdavinlim
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves lasering, cutting, deep peeling & injectables. I don’t do medical work, including #skincareadvice. The latter is given by our nurses & dermal therapist in the clinic
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If you have sensitive skin, it often takes several visits to a dermatologist to understand your skin barrier function & your skin’s threshold. In some cases they may order skin allergy testing to rule out contact dermatitis.
What concentration shall I look for?
Look for glycolic acid ranging from 8 to 15%. Home creams & lotions are buffered compared to low pH clinical formulations ranging from 20 to 70%. Clinical peels or low pH glycolic acids are not recommended for home use as these formulations require neutralization.
What should you not mix AHAs with?
These Are The Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Mix. Note this is not an absolute list, as AHAs can be useful in skin priming. Resistant skin (as compared to sensitive skin) can tolerate various combinations of the below. Be guided by your skin care professional.
- VITAMIN C + AHAS/BHAS.
- RETINOL + AHAS/BHAS.
- RETINOL + VITAMIN C.
- OIL-BASED + WATER-BASED.
- GLYCOLIC ACID + SALICYLIC ACID.
- NIACINAMIDE + VITAMIN C.
Can you use vitamin C with AHA?
Vitamin C can have exfoliating effects on the skin, which is why I generally don’t recommend mixing vitamin C with your AHAs and BHAs. Additionally both formulations are acidic & hence by using AHAs together with ascorbic acid, this can exceed your skin’s irritation threshold. Note: This is NOT an absolute rule, as if you have ‘resistant’ skin, mixing is OK.
Does AHA BHA cause purging?
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA, also known as salicylic acid) exfoliant can help create a clearer complexion, unclog pores, and renew skin’s texture, but some first-time users report experiencing an initial “purging phase.’ AHAs do not usually cause skin purging.
What is the most gentle AHA for sensitive skin ?
Mandelic acid is the gentlest AHA peel as this is the largest molecule of all in the AHA family (it is actually twice the size of glycolic acid). In theory the larger molecule size means slower & more gentle penetration. This can result in a more gentle peel. Personally I do not advise chemical peeling in patients with sensitive skin, including rosacea patients. Peels are akin to applying fuel to a smothering fire! For this subset of patients I do believe that lasers offer better & safer results.
Can I use AHA everyday?
As your skin gets used to them, you can then start applying AHAs every day. I would advise starting with a good formulation of AHAs such as glycolic acid 5 to 10% twice a week, thereby increasing slowly as tolerated. Some people can tolerate daily use whilst other people with sensitive skin will not tolerate it once a week! Understanding your skin’s threshold & not exceeding it is super important.
What are the side effects of AHAs?
Believe it or not, side effects are super common with AHA use as the majority of people dive into this skin care acid face first! Skin irritation including dry skin, redness, blotches, peeling together with stingy & itchy skin are commonly encountered for first time users, especially if you are currently pushing the limits of skin care actives. Enhanced sun sensitivity is another common side effect, hence why application of AHAs should be at night.
How can I get a super strength AHA peel?
@cutis_dermatology provides clinical strength glycolic acid + lactic Acid peels. Our low pH peels range from 20% to super strength 70%. These peels should ideally be performed by a skin care professional as AHAs with low pH will require neutralizing. Be guided by our clinical team as AHAs only form a small selection of our peel range.
What does a sensible skin care routine with AHAs look like?
AM: Cleanser, Antioxidant, Sunscreen
PM: Cleanser, AHA toner or AHA topical alternating with Vitamin A, B, or Pigment correctors. AHAs much like retinol should be used at night as sun sensitivity is a known side effect.
*Other ways to incorporate AHAs include using glycolic & lactic acid washes.
Davin’s Skin Protip on the use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids
AHAs form part of the foundation of dermatologically active ingredients. Medical dermatologists prescribe many compounded lactic & glycolic acid formulations when treating conditions like xerosis (dry skin), ichthyosis (genetic causes of dry skin) as well as sun damage. Melasma & pigmentation correctors are often formulated with glycolic acid, usually around the 5-10% concentration.
AHAs allow me to customise medium to deep chemical peels such as TCA . The classic formulation of Jessner comprises lactic, salicylic acid & resorcinol.
