Bakuchiol
Best used: AM or PM. Up to twice a day | Caution: Well tolerated | Best for: Anti-aging, pigmentation |
Comments: More powerful than retinol, less irritation than retinoids | Mode of action: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory | Science Score: ** |
What is the science behind Bakuchiol?
The science behind this molecule is controversial. Like a retinol, bakuchiol triggers the genetic pathway in skin cells to create several types of collagen, hence it’s use in the treatment of skin health & anti-aging.
Bakuchiol is also an antioxidant & has anti-inflammatory effects. There is however, a paucity of replicable results in the scientific literature, with only one good study which was published in a high ranking scientific journal; the British Journal of Dermatology. The study was performed in California, however some of the investigators had significant conflicts of interest.
What skin conditions can Bakuchiol treat?
In theory, Bakuchiol can address-
- Dark spots or areas of hyperpigmentation, improve skin quality
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines via stimulation of collagen fibres by cells in the deeper dermis
- Speeds up skin cell regeneration: Bakuchiol sends signals to your cells that it’s time to ramp up collagen production and cell turnover.
- Helps soothe & heal skin: By promoting cell turnover and healthy cell regeneration, bakuchiol may help soothe and heal your skin.
Is it really better than retinol-retinoids?
This is a controversial topic. From my understanding of basic science & biochemistry, retinoids (or retinoid like molecules) activate RAR receptors, this in turn activates gene transcription that produces clinical results. Now, from a clinical perspective, the side effects of retinoids are a by-product of the ‘positives’, namely increased cell turnover & exfoliative properties (this results in scale, flaky skin), increased in blood vessels (angiogenesis), this results in redness & skin irritation, photosensitivity (thin s.corneum & UVA action spectrum) results in sunburn. Bottom line- no side effects, possibly no significant clinical change in the skin. I do feel that more research is required to truly answer that question.
Is bakuchiol better than tretinoin?
Yes if you have sensitive skin, no if you do not.
Tretinoin is a vitamin A derivative that has the most amount of research behind it. It remains as one of the most powerful anti-aging topicals prescribed by dermatologists, however it can be trick to use & modulate.

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Which is better, a serum or Bakuchiol oil?
Since an increasing number of skin care products contain bakuchiol, you’ll be relieved to know that the product vehicle does not impact the efficacy of the compound. What counts is the concentration of bakuchiol; research has shown that amounts between 0.5-2% are ideal to get visible benefits. A serum or lotion provides a lightweight coverage, whilst oils can potentially hydrate the skin to a greater degree.
How do I use Bakuchiol?
This can be used in the morning or evening. Product information suggest that it can be used twice a day with little or no side effects.
Jessner TCA peel, one session
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👉This is a medium depth peel. Occasionally I prep with retinoic acid beforehand, but thin skin like this patient, RA is not needed. I scrub with acetone, then coat with 2-4 layers of Jesser. I then have a cup of coffee then come back to finish off with TCA at 35%
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😁Was having a friendly banter with my mentor & close friend @aprofphilipbekhor last night. Peels vs lasers. Why do I like peels? My chill out time. No loud noises apart from the patient's muffled screams 😱😱(joking). Despite the tech of lasers, I still like looking carefully at end points from peels. It is tactile, much like driving a manual car vs an automatic. Sure the latter is easier, but sometimes it’s the challenge to get the downshift perfectly matched, or the epidermis so evenly gray that the entire sheet slides from the dermis. It’s old school cool
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👊🏻Disclaimer: You do need to watch your peel patients more closely cf. NA laser patients, that is fact💯
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
#tca #jessner #jessnertca #chemicalpeels #dermatologist #dermatology #drdavinlim #skinrejuvenation
TCA peels are a simple way to rejuvenate skin. This picture is over a decade old, but I still enjoy peels over lasers (more tactile). It’ much like driving a older vintage car, it’s slower to get to your destination but the drive is more enjoyable🚘
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🔬Skin science: TCA can be applied as a superficial, medium (most common) & deep peel. In this case I employed it as a medium depth peel, to the upper papillary dermis. In some cases I combine it with Jessner for deeper penetration
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👉Downtime: 5- 8 days depending on the strength and coats
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😢Pain: Tolerable with topical application of numbing and skin cooling. I do give oral conscious sedation if deeper peeling
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👍🏻Good for: Skin type 1-2+, pigment, freckles, sun damage, solar keratosis, mild to moderate wrinkles, lentigos/ age spots
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👎🏼Not good for: Darker skin, deep wrinkles, melasma
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
#chemcialpeels #TCApeel #jessner #jessnerTCA #skinrejuvenation #skinlightening #skinbrightening #davinlim #dermatology #skinscience
How often can I use this product?
As this has much less irritating potential compared to say, retinol or retinoids, you can use this up to twice a day. There are no UV sensitive issues with Bakuchiol, unlike retinoids.
What are the side effects of Bakuchiol?
This skin care ingredient has an extremely low side effect profile. It is a very weak irritant. Contact dermatitis has not been reported (as of 2020). If you do develop skin rashes, the most likely culprit is the vehicle or other additives such as preservatives, propylene glycol, fragrance & other chemicals mixed in with Bakuchiol.
How do I incorporate Bakuchiol in my daily skin care routine?
A sensible skin care routine that incorporates Bakuchiol goes something like this;
AM: Gentle cleanser, then antioxidants*, SPF, make up. (*Tocopherol, ferulic acid, ascorbic acid)
PM: Cleanser, actives such as Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Bakuchiol Option for ascorbic acid (*Refer to below)
*There are many sensible options to combine skin care ingredients with endless combinations. As Bakuchiol is relatively benign it can be safely combined with other active ingredients. More research is needed to ascertain stability & bioavailability when mixed.
Davin’s Skin Protip
Probably best used by trending skin care hoarders. My reasoning? Even though it has been shown to be effective in one major study published in a high-ranking dermatology journal, the jury is still out in regard to the real value of this retinoid-like molecule. My take on this? I suspect you would be better off using even ¼ dilution of a medically prescribed retinoid cream once a week! Regardless, Bakuchiol is cost effective & banal, so if you must, knock yourself out.
