Eye Creams

Eye Creams

Best Ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin K, Peptides, CaffeineAdjunctive Treatments: Dermal fillers, lasers, Tixel
Worse Ingredients: High strength topicals (irritation)Tips: Always diagnose the cause BEFORE treatments

What ingredients should I be looking for when I’m shopping for an eye cream?

The best eye creams have a combination of the following ingredients-

Caffeine: This changes blood flow in the thin skin of the under eye area, potentially reducing capillaries & veins that cause dark circles.

Peptides: In theory can improve dermal thickness & stimulate collagen production.

Vitamin K: Modulate blood flow, helping vascular cause of dark circles.

Retinol/Retinyl Aldehyde: Can act as an anti-oxidant as well as a powerful collagen enhancer.

Hyaluronic Acid: Is a hydrator with very little side effects. 

Vitamin E: Also known as tocopherol is an antioxidant that is gentle on the skin. 

Arbutin: Can reduce pigmentation.

Botanicals: Such as licorice root, bearberry, cranberry, & flavonoids are naturally occurring pigment correctors. 

Do I really need a separate eye cream from my face cream—or can I use my face product?

Creams are designed specifically to suit their purpose. For the face, the consistency and texture will be different than for the eye. As the skin around the eye is the thinnest, formulations matter if you want to address specific concerns as listed below. 

What ingredients should I look for if I would like to correct dark under eye circles?

Pigment correctors include hydroquinone (low concentration in this area), alpha arbutin, licorice, berry extracts, soy, flavonoids, azelaic acid,  & kojic acid. These ingredients are most effective against secondary causes of pigmentation including melasma & post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. They are ineffective for the treatment of hereditary or constitutional pigmentation.  

Most cases of dark circle will benefit from a combination of eye creams, lasers, peels, & dermal fillers. 

Davin’s ProTip on Eye Creams

The most important thing to understand regarding eye creams is that the majority of eye creams are a waste of time, effort & money. A cream that clinically reverse ageing or dark circles does not exist. Creams however are useful in prevention, take for example cases of skin irritation, dry skin, or dehydrated eyelids. The use of simple bland topicals such as hyaluronic acid, paraffin, petrolatum or squalene can make a huge difference in repairing skin barrier function.  Antioxidants are useful in prevention not reversal of wrinkles & pigmentation. 

In the context of dark circles, creams play a synergistic role with procedures such as lasers, & dermal fillers. At best, creams can reduce or modulate blood flow & pigment production by 10-20%, giving marginal clinical effects. The most important factor to consider when treating the under eye area is the diagnosis, as this will give rise to precise treatments. Be guided by your skin expert. 


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