|Best used: In AM||Caution: Sensitive skin||Best for: Protection under sunscreen|
|Comments: Excellent antioxidant||Mode of action: Antioxidant||Science Score:|
What are ferulic acid benefits?
This is one of the top 5 skin care ‘actives’ prescribed for anti-aging. Such as –
- Help with wrinkles & lines as it protects your skin from extrinsic ageing.
- Reduces the potential for skin laxity as it protects collagen
- Reduces inflammation & oxidative stress, and in theory can reduce severity of outbreaks
- Reduces skin pigmentation, melasma & brown spots by attenuating the oxidative effects of light
- Boosts the effects of other antioxidants including ascorbic acid & tocopherol
What is the science behind Ferulic acid?
This antioxidant is found in many foods including oats & fruits. Antioxidants protect skin from ‘free radicals.’ Ferulic acid is often combined with other free-radical scavengers including ascorbic acid & vitamin E / tocopherol. These molecules mop up potentially harmful molecules caused by UV radiation, smoking & environmental pollutants. Think of skin care as protective barriers. The first should be a protective physical barrier, for example a hat. The second barrier is sunscreen, either a physical or chemical. The last line of defence is an antioxidant.
How do I incorporate ferulic acid in my skin care routine?
Best applied in the AM (can be used PM- twice daily), apply to exposed areas; face, neck & decolletage. Best used under sun protection. Depending on the formulation a small amount can go a long way.
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Does Ferulic Acid lighten skin?
Ferulic acid is a powerful natural antioxidant that’s best used in tandem with other antioxidants including vitamin C & E. Unlike ascorbic acid which has a direct effect on pigment production, ferulic acid is often used in skin lightening and anti-aging products to protect against UV damage & not to suppress melanin production.
Does vitamin C require ferulic acid?
Vitamin C and E are both antioxidants and support each other. Adding that ferulic acid is another antioxidant which boosts and stabilizes both vitamin C & tocopherol. Having said this, stand-alone compounds are commonly found, so the answer is no, vitamin C does not require ferulic acid for stability.
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Can ferulic acid be added to retinol?
In theory this combination can be done, but these ingredients should be applied independently. Why? Ferulic acid is best as a protectant, namely applied in the morning to scavenge the UV rays that get through sunscreen. Retinol should be used in the evenings to repair damaged collagen. Besides, retinoids are sun sensitive.
What should not be used with ferulic acid?
Skin care acids such as lactic and glycolic acid should not be used with ferulic acid. AHA’s can markedly decrease the skin’s pH levels, which, in theory can affect the bioavailability of ferulic acid.
Who should be careful?
Caution in sensitive skin as this formulation may cause skin irritation. This is mostly due to Vitamin C, which is frequently combined with ferulic acid. If you do have sensitive skin you may want to moisturise 30 minutes before application. A test spot can be useful. Another hint is to start slowly, apply every second day & increase as tolerated. For patients with super sensitive skin, consider tocopherol or vitamin E as the antioxidant of choice for you. This has the least irritating potential.
What does a sensible skin care routine with ferulic acid look like?
Davin’s Skin Protip on Ferulic Acid
There are no head-to-head studies comparing high end brands like Skinceuticals to super affordable formulations like Timeless C+E+ Ferulic or The Ordinary (1/20 the cost of Skinceuticals). I am sure the high-end brands will not show a linear cost benefit ratio; the flipside is that The Ordinary consumer is not the same as the ‘luxury skincare’ consumer. Antioxidants, though important, are only the third line of defence, behind a physical barrier such as a hat, then sunscreen. If UV does not get into the dermal layer of skin, the requirement for an antioxidant diminishes.
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