Ascorbic Acid / Vitamin C

Ascorbic Acid / Vitamin C


Best used: AM Or PMCaution: Sensitive Skin, Rosacea, Best for: Anti-aging, skin pigmentation, UV protection
Comments: All rounder however can cause skin irritation in someMode of action:


Pigment corrector

Collagen builder

Science Score:



Why use vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a powerful skincare vitamin & forms the last vitamin of the ABCs of dermatology. Its main roles in skincare include the following-

  • Pigment inhibitor: frequently prescribed to reduce pigment production, it is useful to treat melasma pigment, age spots & post acne marks. 
  • Collagen builder: as adjunct to retinol & AHAs
  • Antioxidant: often combined with vitamin E & ferulic acid to help protect the skin from free radicals & environmental damage.

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When should I you use vitamin C, in the morning or night?

When should I use vitamin C? Ascorbic acid is a super multi-tasking skin vitamin that can be used in the morning or in the evening, & if you have resistant skin twice a day!

Morning application of ascorbic acid enables this to function as a free radical scavenger & an antioxidant, reducing the effects of harmful UV rays. Vitamin C is most often combined with other free radical scavengers including vitamin E & ferulic acid. “C” also acts as a stabilizing molecule to prolong the bioactivity of other formulations including Hydroquinone. 

Evening application of vitamin C amplifies its role as a collagen builder & pigment corrector. Ascorbic acid can lighten & brighten skin as it inhibits the enzyme that produces melanin (pigment). 

A small minority of patients can tolerate vitamin C twice a day in addition to other skin care actives. Do NOT attempt twice a day application if you have sensitive skin. 

Can I use Vitamin C serum every day?

Vitamin C serum is typically applied once a day. A good rule of thumb is to cleanse, , apply vitamin C serum, and then moisturize or layer your SPF of choice. Applied in the morning vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, protecting your skin against UV rays. Applied at night, ascorbic acid works by decreasing pigment production & aids in improving skin tone by building new collagen. 

Davin’s Skin Protip

Ascorbic acid is the best & the worst ingredient on the market. The good? It is a super antioxidant, reducing UV & environmental stressors that break down collagen, elastin & hyaluronic acid. It also has an important role in stabilizing compounds such as hydroquinone. The bad? Not many people know how to use it well. Good formulations are acidic with a low pH, hence one should be careful in introducing this acid into a sensible skin care routine. The majority of patients who have skin sensitivities or rosacea will not tolerate high concentrations of ascorbic acid. Formulations matter with this skin care vitamin. 

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