Anti-Wrinkle Creams

  • Best ResultsOngoing
  • Treatment RecoveryNA
  • Procedure TimeNA
  • Skin SpecialistDermal therapist
  • Duration of ResultsOngoing
  • AnaestheticNA
  • Back to WorkImmediately
  • Cost$

Anti-Wrinkle Creams

The holy grail is a cream to take away wrinkles around the eyes, frown lines, forehead & upper lips. Unfortunately, there are no magic creams, however there are proven skin care ingredients that can treat mild wrinkling & prevent wrinkles. Skin care can be incorporated with procedures for synergistic results.

FactsFacts on Anti-wrinkle creams

  • Creams are best used to prevent or maintain results
  • Antioxidants are the first line of defence against wrinkles after sunscreen
  • The most effective antioxidants are tocopherol, ferulic acid, & ascorbic acid
  • Retinoids can reduce fine lines & wrinkles
  • Retinol, retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate & retinyl palmitate are OTC retinoids
  • Prescription retinoids include tretinoin, retinoic acid & trifarotene
  • I also highly rate alpha hydroxy acids as an effective anti-wrinkle cream

Can anti wrinkle creams really reduce wrinkles?

The majority of anti-wrinkle are bullsh*t. Prescription anti-wrinkle creams can give statistically significant improvements in some wrinkles. This does not mean that they give good to excellent clinical results. This is different from statistical results. Do I still encourage patients to use this group of creams? Yes, mainly to maintain results or to prevent wrinkles. 

What ingredients to look for?

There is so much to choose from. Lots of pseudoscience & marketing. I will keep this list short, if you are in the market for an anti-wrinkle cream, here are my top 5 ingredients-

  1. Retinol 0.5% or higher
  2. Ascorbic acid, 10% but no stronger than 20%
  3. Glycolic acid 10-18%, pH around 3.4
  4. Hyaluronic acid, multi molecular weights.
  5. Niacinamide or vitamin B3. Low irritant potential.

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are the most powerful anti-wrinkle topical ingredient to date. They reduce wrinkles by stimulating dermal collagen, increasing turnover of skin cells (exfoliation) & improving skin lumosity.

The buzz word to look out for is retinol. This molecule is powerful, yet gentle enough for most skin types. Other retinoids include retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate & hydroxy pinacolone retinoate. Prescription retinoids include tretinoin, retinoic acid, adapalene, tazoretene & trifarotene. This group is more powerful than OTC formulations.

What are alpha hydroxy acids?

This group of skin acids include lactic, citric, glycolic, & mandelic acids. They reduce wrinkles by –

  1. Stimulating dermal collagen. Especially in high concentrations ranging between 50-70% glycolic acid (in clinic peel).
  2. Improving epidermal turnover (exfoliation role), hence reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  3. Increasing the absorption of more potent skin care products such as retinoids. In this role they act as primers.

OTC AHA lotions & serums range between 8-20% AHA in a pH range of 2.5 to 3.8. The best formulations will depend on your skin type, conditions, current ingredients & end goals.

Disclaimer: For product recommendations, please see my clinical team. I do NOT provide skin consults as my work is procedural.

Davin’s viewpoint on anti-wrinkle creams

If I can give you some advice- be purposeful & directed with your skin care if you want results. Skin care can be ritualistic, namely a 10 to 20 step routine. Nothing wrong with this if you have too much time on your hands and or like this routine. Koreans do it, it makes skin care fun. 

My view is minimalistic. It may not be the view shared by others, & I respect that. In any given situation (bar pigmentation due to melasma), skin directed procedures such as dermal fillers, Botox, clinical peels, laser resurfacing etc.. are going to give you better results over skin care. The flipside, skin care can preserve the results you get from procedures. In the ideal world, powerful ingredients used intermittently (& with purpose) give the best results. There are many other factors to consider including-

  • Product knowledge of the patient. Do they know how to safely combine?
  • Skin irritation threshold of the individual, this varies. A lot.
  • Access to retinoids & powerful AHAs.
  • Guidance as to the ideal combination & percentages.

My hint, start slowly, understand our skin. Know when to push & when to back off. If you are using super powerful actives, know how to salvage irritant dermatitis.

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