By Dr Davin Lim
Cutis Dermatology
Dermatologist, Brisbane
Eye creams summary; Davin’s Tips
Here are my favorite go to tips on eye creams.
- Anti-aging eye cream: keep it simple. Refresh Eye ointment from any pharmacy deals with skin hydration. This formulation is used by many dermatologists as it has white soft paraffin. Low dose retinol, SPF.
- Dark circles: Boron to reflect light, caffeine & vitamin K for vascular causes. The usual vitamin C, arbutin, & botanicals for pigmentation causes. Peptides are hit and miss. HA fillers such as Redensity 2, Restylane & Juvederm products can be useful in some, but not all cases of dark circles. Lasers can be very helpful in some cases.
- Sensitive skin: hyaluronic acid, squalene, paraffin, emollients. Keep it simple.
- Best eye rejuvenation tips: save your money on expensive skin care products & eye creams. You will get far better results with lasers & devices such as Tixel.
Do eye creams work? Are eye creams really necessary? What key ingredients should I look for?
Eye creams function to do one of three things-
- As part of an anti-aging skin care routine.
- To address dark circles.
- To treat wrinkles (you wish! More on that later)
- To reduce skin irritation, for example eczema.
Let us start with the logic of choosing eye creams. Once you have a purpose, you can then focus on the aim of skin care.
Ingredients: Look for ingredients that target specific concerns, such as dark circles, puffiness, or fine lines. Some common ingredients to look for include retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, and caffeine.
- Hydration: Eye creams should be hydrating to help plump up the delicate skin around the eyes and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
- Sun protection: Look for an eye cream that contains SPF to protect the delicate skin around the eyes from sun damage.
- Formulation: Eye creams come in different formulations, such as gels, serums, or creams. Choose one that is best suited for your skin type and preferences.
- Sensitivity: Some people may find that certain ingredients or formulations can be irritating to the delicate skin around the eyes. Choose a product that is formulated for sensitive skin or that is fragrance-free.
- Clinical studies: Look for products that have been clinically tested and have been proven to be effective.
Anti aging eye creams
Anti-aging eye creams are skincare products specifically designed for the delicate skin around the eyes. As we age, the skin around the eyes can become thinner and more fragile, leading to the development of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles. Anti-aging eye creams can help to address these concerns by providing targeted antioxidants to this area.
Some common ingredients found in anti-aging eye creams include:
- Retinol: a form of vitamin A that can help to boost collagen production and increase cell turnover, leading to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.
- Ferulic acid: this is one of the most potent antioxidants
- Vitamin E: protects the skin from UV damage and is ideal for the sensitive eyelid skin. Often combined with ferulic and ascorbic acid.
- Vitamin C: an antioxidant that can help to brighten and even out skin tone, while also protecting the skin from environmental damage.
- Hyaluronic acid: a moisturizing agent that can help to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Peptides: small chains of amino acids that can help to stimulate collagen production and improve the overall firmness of the skin.
It is important to note that the effectiveness of anti-aging eye creams can vary depending on the individual, so it may take some trial and error to find the right product for you. Additionally, it’s always a good idea to patch test before using any new product and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns.
Eye creams are best combined with eye rejuvenation procedures such as fractional lasers, RF, Picosure, Picoway lasers, & hyaluronic acid injections.
Eye creams for dark circles
Dark circles under the eyes can be caused by a variety of factors, including genetics, aging, lack of sleep, and allergies. While some people may be more prone to developing dark circles, there are eye creams available that can help to reduce their appearance.
Some common ingredients found in eye creams for dark circles include:
- Vitamin K: helps to improve the appearance of dark circles by increasing blood flow to the area.
- Caffeine: can help to constrict blood vessels and reduce puffiness around the eyes.
- Kojic acid: helps to inhibit the production of melanin, which can help to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark circles.
- Niacinamide: can help to improve circulation and reduce the appearance of dark circles and hyperpigmentation.
It’s important to note that these creams are not a permanent solution for dark circles, but can help to improve their appearance with regular use. Additionally, it’s always a good idea to use sunscreen to protect the delicate skin around the eyes as UV rays can cause dark circles to appear more prominent.
Keep in mind that dark circles could be caused by underlying medical conditions. In most cases I combine eye creams with procedures such as dermal filler injections, lasers & radiofrequency microneedling.
Eye creams to treat wrinkles
Eye creams for wrinkles are formulated to target the delicate skin around the eyes, which is often the first area to show signs of aging. As we age, the skin around the eyes loses elasticity and collagen, leading to the development of lines. Eye creams for wrinkles can help to address these concerns by providing targeted hydration and nourishment to the skin.
Some common ingredients found in eye creams for wrinkles include:
- Retinol: a form of vitamin A that can help to boost collagen production and increase cell turnover, leading to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.
- Vitamin C: an antioxidant that can help to brighten and even out skin tone, while also protecting the skin from environmental damage.
- Hyaluronic acid: a moisturizing agent that can help to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Peptides: small chains of amino acids that can help to stimulate collagen production and improve the overall firmness of the skin.
It’s important to note that these creams are not a permanent solution for wrinkles, but with regular use can help to improve their appearance. Additionally, it’s always a good idea to use sunscreen and antioxidants to protect the delicate skin around the eyes as UV rays can cause wrinkles to appear more prominent.
Note that wrinkles around the eye area can be caused by various factors such as repetitive facial movements, sun exposure and a lack of hydration, so it’s important to address these factors in addition to using a cream. Consider Botox and aesthetic injectables as well as lasers and chemical peels for best results. It is a good idea to patch test before using any new product and consult a skin care expert if you have any concerns.
Eye creams for sensitive skin
Eye creams for sensitive skin are formulated to address the specific needs of those with sensitive skin around the eyes. These creams are typically free from harsh chemicals and fragrances that can irritate the skin and cause redness, itching, or burning.
Ingredients found in eye creams for sensitive skin include:
- Aloe vera: known for its soothing and moisturizing properties
- Calendula: an anti-inflammatory and soothing herb
- Chamomile: an anti-inflammatory herb that can help to soothe irritated skin
- Cucumber extract: known to soothe and hydrate the skin, also known for its cooling effect.
- Bisabolol: extracted from chamomile, it is known to have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
It’s important to look for eye creams that are fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic, which means that they won’t clog your pores and cause breakouts. Also, it’s always a good idea to patch test before using any new product, and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns.
It’s also important to note that using gentle skincare routine and avoiding harsh scrubs, exfoliators, and chemical peels can help to prevent irritation and keep the skin around the eyes healthy. Additionally, drinking plenty of water and getting adequate sleep can help to keep the skin hydrated and reduce puffiness around the eyes.
Key ingredient list; what to look for
Peptides
Peptides are small chains of amino acids that can help to improve the appearance of the skin around the eyes. When applied to the skin, peptides can help to stimulate collagen production and improve the overall firmness of the skin. Collagen is a protein that is found in the skin and is responsible for providing structure and elasticity.
There are different types of peptides that can be used in eye creams, each with their own specific function. Some of the most common peptides used in eye creams include:
- Matrixyl: a peptide that can help to stimulate collagen production, leading to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.
- Argireline: also known as acetyl hexapeptide-8, it is a peptide that can help to relax facial muscles, reducing the appearance of wrinkles caused by repetitive facial movements.
- Copper peptides: These peptides help in collagen production and skin repair, they also have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.
Peptides work by signaling the skin to produce more collagen, which can help to plump up the eyelid skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. They can also help to improve the overall texture and tone of eyelid skin, making it appear smoother and more youthful. It’s important to note that the effectiveness of peptides can vary depending on the individual, so it may take some trial and error to find the right product for you.
Boron
Boron is an ingredient found in eye creams, it is a mineral that is found in the earth’s crust and is used to reflect light, in turn reducing the appearance of dark circles. I often combine this ingredient with other eye rejuvenating procedures such as lasers and low strength retinoid peels.
Vitamin K
Vitamin K is a fat-soluble vitamin that can be found in leafy green vegetables and is known for its role in blood clotting. In skincare, it is used for its ability to improve the appearance of dark circles.
When applied topically, Vitamin K can help to improve the appearance of dark circles by increasing blood flow to the area. Dark circles can be caused by blood vessels that are dilated or damaged, which can cause blood to pool in the area, resulting in a dark appearance. Vitamin K can help to constrict the blood vessels, reducing the pooling of blood and improving the overall appearance of dark circles.
Vitamin K can also help to strengthen the capillaries and improve the overall health of the skin around the eyes. When used in conjunction with other ingredients such as Vitamin C, it can also help to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark circles.
Caffeine
Caffeine works in eye creams by reducing the appearance of puffiness and dark circles around the eyes. When applied topically, caffeine constricts blood vessels, reducing the pooling of blood that can cause dark circles. It also helps to reduce inflammation and fluid retention in the skin, which can cause puffiness.
Caffeine also improves blood circulation, bringing oxygen and nutrients to the skin, and promoting healthy skin function. It can also help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
Additionally, caffeine is an antioxidant, which means it can help to protect the skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals. It’s important to note that the effectiveness of caffeine may vary depending on the individual, and it may take some trial and error to find the right product for you. It’s also important to patch test before using any new product and to consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns.
Retinol
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in eye creams for its anti-aging properties. When applied topically, retinol can help to boost collagen production and increase cell turnover, leading to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.
Retinol works by penetrating the skin and stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, which are proteins that give the skin its structure and elasticity. This process helps to plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Retinol also helps to increase cell turnover, which means that it helps to remove the old, damaged cells on the surface of the skin and replace them with new, healthy cells. This can help to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, making it appear smoother and more youthful. Improved turnover means less pigmentation, especially useful for dark circles.
Retinol is a powerful ingredient and should be used with caution, as it can cause irritation and redness, particularly when first starting to use it. It’s important to start with a lower concentration and work your way up to a higher concentration if needed. It’s best to use it at night and use sunscreen during the day. Retinyl palmitate is gentler than granactive retinol and retinaldehyde, especially important for thinner eyelid skin.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring substance in the body that acts as a humectant, meaning it helps to retain moisture in the skin. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid can help to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of eye wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, which means that when applied to the skin, it can help to keep the skin hydrated and moisturized. This can help to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, making it appear smoother and more youthful. This key ingredient improves the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines. This is because when the skin is hydrated, it appears plumper and more youthful. Additionally, it can help to improve the skin’s elasticity and firmness, making it appear less saggy.
Hyaluronic acid is considered gentle and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s a great ingredient to look for in eye creams as it can help to hydrate and plump up the delicate skin around the eyes. It’s also important to use a moisturizer in conjunction with an eye cream containing HA to lock in the moisture and prevent the skin from becoming dry.
Eye cream patch testing & how to do it?
Patch testing is especially applied to products that may cause irritation (retinoids, skin acids, anti-pigment formulations). If you have a history of sensitive skin, patch test any product before diving right in. A patch test is a way to test the skin’s reaction to a new product before applying it to your entire face. Here’s how to do a patch test for an eye cream:
- Cleanse your skin: Start by washing your face and making sure your skin is clean and dry.
- Apply a small amount of the eye cream to the inside of your wrist or behind your ear. These areas have similar skin to the eye area.
- Wait for 24 hours: Leave the product on your skin for at least 24 hours and observe for any redness, itching, or other signs of irritation.
- Check for reactions: After 24 hours, check the patch test area for any reactions such as redness, itching, or rash. If there is no reaction, it is considered safe to use the product on your eyes.
- Avoid applying the product to your eyes if you experience any irritation, redness, or other signs of a reaction.
It’s important to note that even if you have no reaction during the patch test, it’s still possible to have a reaction when the product is applied to the eyes. So, always be sure to apply a small amount of the product to the eye area and wait a few minutes before applying more or using it regularly.
And, it’s always best to consult with a dermatologist or skin care professional before using any new product, especially if you have sensitive skin.
For more information on starting a skincare routine, consult my nurses at Cutis Dermatology, Brisbane. They have extensive knowledge of skin, including skin directed procedures such as lasers, chemical peels, injectables and more. Please note I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves directed procedures, and not skin care.