How to Exfoliate Your Skin 

How to Exfoliate Your Skin 

By Dr Davin Lim, Procedural Dermatologist, Brisbane & Sydney

How to Exfoliate Your Skin 

How to Exfoliate Your Skin 

Exfoliating the skin can have several benefits, including:

  1. Improved skin texture: Exfoliating removes dead skin cells and can smooth out rough, uneven skin texture.
  2. Reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles: Exfoliating can help to stimulate collagen production, which can make the skin appear more youthful.
  3. Clearer, brighter complexion: Exfoliating can help to unclog pores and remove impurities, leaving the skin looking clearer and brighter.
  4. Reduced appearance of dark spots: Exfoliating can help to lighten dark spots and even out the skin tone.
  5. Improved product absorption: Exfoliating can help to remove the barrier of dead skin cells, allowing skincare products to penetrate deeper into the skin.
  6. Better makeup application: When the skin is exfoliated, makeup goes on smoother and lasts longer.

It’s important to note that exfoliating can also cause irritation, dryness, and redness if done too often or with harsh products. It’s always a good idea to start with a lower frequency of exfoliation and increase as your skin adapts.

How often should I exfoliate?

It is generally recommended to exfoliate your skin once or twice a week. However, it’s important to consider your individual skin type and sensitivity when determining how often to exfoliate. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to exfoliate less frequently, or use a gentler exfoliating product. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you may be able to exfoliate more frequently without causing irritation. It’s always a good idea to start with a lower frequency of exfoliation and increase as your skin adapts.

How long does it take to see the results of regular exfoliation? 

It can vary depending on the individual and the type of exfoliation being used. Some people may notice an improvement in their skin’s texture and appearance within a few days of exfoliating, while others may not see results for several weeks.

For people with acne, it may take up to 8 weeks to see an improvement in the condition of their skin. For anti-aging benefits, it may take even longer to see the results. In general, consistent and regular exfoliation is important for maintaining the benefits of exfoliation.

It’s also important to note that everyone’s skin is different and some people may not see any visible improvement at all. In this case, it’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist to understand if there’s any underlying condition that needs to be treated before exfoliating.

What types of exfoliants are there?

The best exfoliant for you will depend on your individual skin type and concerns. However, here are some common types of exfoliants that are popular and considered effective by many:

  1. Physical exfoliants: These exfoliants use small particles or granules to scrub away dead skin cells. Examples include scrubs made with sugar, salt, or ground nuts. Personally, I dislike physical exfoliants, especially if you are starting out.
  2. Chemical exfoliants: These exfoliants use acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily removed. Examples include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid.
  3. Enzymatic exfoliants: These exfoliants use enzymes to dissolve the proteins that hold dead skin cells together. Examples include papain, bromelain, and pumpkin enzymes.

It’s always a good idea to start with a lower strength and frequency of exfoliation and increase as your skin adapts. It’s also important to use sunscreen and moisturizer after exfoliating to protect your skin.

It’s also important to note that some exfoliants may not be suitable for certain skin types or conditions, so it’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist before starting an exfoliation routine.

AHA or glycolic/lactic acid exfoliation

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that can be used to exfoliate the skin. Here are some steps for using glycolic acid to exfoliate:

  1. Cleanse your face thoroughly to remove any makeup or impurities.
  2. Apply a small amount of glycolic acid product to your face, using your fingertips to gently massage it into your skin. Avoid the eye area.
  3. Leave the product on your skin for the recommended amount of time, which can vary depending on the product you’re using. Some products are left on for a few minutes, while others are left on overnight.
  4. Rinse your face with lukewarm water and gently pat dry.
  5. After exfoliating, it’s important to use a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect your skin.

It’s always a good idea to start with a lower concentration of glycolic acid and use it less frequently until your skin adapts. It’s also a good idea to avoid sun exposure after using glycolic acid as it may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.

BHA or salicylic acid exfoliation 

Salicylic acid is a type of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that can be used to exfoliate the skin. Here are some steps for using salicylic acid to exfoliate:

  1. Cleanse your face thoroughly to remove any makeup or impurities.
  2. Apply a small amount of salicylic acid product to your face, using your fingertips to gently massage it into your skin. Avoid the eye area.
  3. Leave the product on your skin for the recommended amount of time, which can vary depending on the product you’re using. Some products are left on for a few minutes, while others are left on overnight.
  4. Rinse your face with lukewarm water and gently pat dry.
  5. After exfoliating, it’s important to use a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect your skin.

It’s always a good idea to start with a lower concentration of salicylic acid and use it less frequently until your skin adapts. It’s also a good idea to avoid sun exposure after using salicylic acid as it may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.

It’s also important to note that salicylic acid is often used as an acne treatment, so it’s recommended to use products that contain salicylic acid only if you are looking to also treat acne.

Retinoid/retinol exfoliation 

Retinoids, such as retinol, work by increasing cell turnover in the skin. This means that they help to speed up the process by which the skin naturally sheds dead cells, revealing new, healthy skin cells underneath.

Retinoids work by stimulating the production of collagen, and by increasing the rate at which skin cells are generated, and pushing them to the surface. This process can help to improve the texture of the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and unclog pores.

Retinoids also have the ability to improve the skin’s texture and tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and minimize the size of pores. They also help to improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which can help to reduce the appearance of dry, flaky skin.

It’s important to note that retinoids can cause some mild irritation, dryness, and redness when first used, and it’s recommended to start with a lower concentration product and use it less frequently until your skin adapts. It’s also important to use sunscreen when using retinoids as they may increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. My go to retinoids include tretinoin, adapalene, trifarotene and tazarotene, over retinol and retinaldehyde. 

Physical exfoliation with brushes & mitts

Exfoliating mitts, also known as kessa mitts, are a popular way to exfoliate the skin. Here are some steps for using exfoliating mitts:

  1. Begin by wetting your skin with lukewarm water.
  2. Gently rub the exfoliating mitt over your skin in circular motions, starting from the feet and working your way up. Be sure to pay extra attention to areas with rough skin, such as the heels and elbows.
  3. Avoid using too much pressure, let the mitt do the work.
  4. Rinse your skin thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove any dead skin cells.
  5. Pat your skin dry and apply a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated.

It’s a good idea to use exfoliating mitts once or twice a week, depending on your skin’s needs. If you have sensitive skin, you may want to use it less frequently. If you have rough skin, you can use it more frequently.

It’s also important to note that exfoliating mitts are not recommended for people with sensitive skin (see below).

What is my favorite exfoliating skin care routine?

Exfoliating can be an effective part of an anti-aging skincare routine. It is not for beginners as knowing how to modulate your skin care is important before trying these steps. Once you understand how your skin reacts & how to take care of it once you exceed your skin’s threshold, you can supercharge your anti-aging journey with these simple tips. 

 Here are some tips for incorporating exfoliation for anti-aging:

  1. Use a gentle exfoliant: It’s important to use a gentle exfoliant that will not irritate the skin. Physical exfoliants, such as scrubs, can be too harsh for mature skin. Instead, consider using chemical exfoliants such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid.
  2. Exfoliate regularly: Exfoliating regularly can help to stimulate collagen production, which can make the skin appear more youthful. Start with once a week and increase as your skin adapts.
  3. Use anti-aging products: After exfoliating, it’s important to use a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect your skin. Look for products that contain anti-aging ingredients such as retinoids, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants.
  4. Use it in the evening: Exfoliating in the evening allows the skin to repair and regenerate overnight.
  5. Consult a skin care expert: It’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist before starting an exfoliation routine, especially if you have any underlying skin conditions or concerns. Note: my work is procedural (I inject, cut, laser & do deep peels, for skin care consults, discuss this with your dermatologist or skin care expert). 

It’s important to remember that exfoliation is just one part of a comprehensive skincare routine that should also include protecting your skin from the sun, staying hydrated, eating a healthy diet and avoiding smoking.

Exfoliation caution warning  

Exfoliating is not recommended for everyone. Here are some groups of people who should avoid exfoliating:

  1. People with sensitive skin: If you have sensitive skin, exfoliating can cause irritation, redness, and dryness. It’s best to avoid exfoliating or use a gentler exfoliating product.
  2. People with rosacea: Exfoliating can irritate the skin and worsen the symptoms of rosacea.
  3. People with eczema: Exfoliating can irritate the skin and worsen the symptoms of eczema.
  4. People with active acne: Exfoliating can irritate the skin and worsen the symptoms of acne. It’s best to consult a dermatologist to develop a treatment plan.
  5. People who have recently had a chemical peel or laser treatment: Exfoliating can cause irritation, redness, and dryness. It’s best to avoid exfoliating or consult a dermatologist.
  6. People who have recently sunburned or windburned skin: Exfoliating can cause irritation, redness, and dryness. It’s best to avoid exfoliating or consult a dermatologist.

It’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist before starting an exfoliation routine, especially if you have any underlying skin conditions or concerns.

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