Keratosis Pilaris
- Best Results2-4 months
- Treatment RecoveryNA
- Procedure Time1 min daily
- Skin SpecialistYou with help from me
- Duration of ResultsVariable
- AnaestheticNA
- Back to WorkNA
- Cost$
Keratosis Pilaris
KP or keratosis pilaris is a bumpy red rash that is due to a build-up of dead skin cells & keratin around the hair follicle. Commonly affected areas include the back of the arms, thighs, cheeks, & buttocks. This rash can be treated effectively with chemical & physical exfoliants. Topical retinoids can be useful in some cases.
FactsFacts On Keratosis Pilaris
- KP has over 6 different variants
- The most common variant affects the back of the arms, front legs & buttocks
- The best way to treat this skin condition is to exfoliate
- Thank me later
- The natural history of KP is to persist for a few decades before improving
- Read more about how to treat KP, without going to see a dermatologist
- You can use a physical or chemical exfoliator, or preferably both
What does Keratosis Pilaris look like?
The garden variety KP looks like persistent red goosebumps on the back of arms, the front of legs & occasionally on the buttocks. The roughness is due to the build-up of keratin.
The second most common KP subtype involves the face. This is known as KP rubra pilaris, meaning red & bumpy.
Most cases of KP do not cause any symptoms, some cases can flare up in summer & get infected, this is known as KP pustulosa.
Who gets keratosis pilaris?
KP is very common. It affects 1 in 3 adults. It is more common in patients with atopy, allergies & dry skin. KP starts around the teenage years & improves in the 30s. My brother has it. He is almost 50, & his KP is starting to improve.
What home DIY treatments can you try?
Simple solutions include a loofah & exfoliating acid/s. A basic treatment goes something like this; salicylic acid 2% wash (La Roche Posay Effaclar Micropeel) with loofah exfoliation in the shower Monday to Friday. Lactic acid 20% weekends only. Modify according to side effects & results.
Other skincare acids include AHAs such as glycolic or lactic acid washes, with or without salicylic acid. The Ordinary makes cheap & nasty acids, ideal for the treatment of keratosis pilaris.
When should you see a dermatologist?
Consider seeing a medical dermatologist if a diagnosis is in doubt, lichen spinulosus, follicular lupus, follicular LP, psoriasis & DOKs (disorders of keratinization) are all possible, but rare diagnoses.
A dermatologist can also fine tune your topicals, for example increase the concentration of active ingredients such as acids, the strength of retinoids or add antibacterial agents such as chlorhexidine or thymol.
Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist. I do not prescribe; I do not treat KP. Please see my colleagues @cliniccutis
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At what age does Keratosis Pilaris go away?
KP can improve in the 4th decade of life- usually mid 30s. Persistence into the 50s is not uncommon (especially for face & back of arms). Prince Willian & Harry still have KP, however it gets better with time.
Can keratosis pilaris affect the face?
Yup. The cheeks are frequently involved. This is known as KP facei (face), if there are lots of redness this is called KP rubra facei (red face). KP in this area can cause blotches that are worse with heat, social situations & blushing.
What do dermatologists prescribe for KP?
Much along the same lines as DIY treatments, exfoliating skin care acids, retinoids & physical exfoliants are prescribed by my colleagues. They use varying concentrations of the following ingredients-
- Salicylic acid: 3 to 10 %. This BHA is anti-inflammatory.
- Lactic / glycolic acids: 5-15 percent in buffered pH. Acts as an exfoliant.
- Propylene glycol: 5-10%, aids in absorption.
- Thymol: 0.5 to 2%, acts as an antibacterial agent.
- Tretinoin, retinoic acid, retinoids: This speed up turnover of skin cells
- Urea: moisturises skin, can be useful
- Anti-inflammatory steroid creams: can reduce redness, often used in a pulsed manner.
Disclaimer: I do not treat KP. My colleagues at Clinic Cutis can help. I personally do not laser KP, however you can see my nurses for treatments.
What can retinoids do for KP?
Retinoids can help some cases of KP. They work by increasing epidermal turnover, hence acting as a chemical exfoliant. My ranking from best to worse goes like this-
- Trifarotene (Akleif): Most powerful, largest pack, economical.
- Tazarotene: Powerful, needs compounding.
- Adapalene: OTC in the US, easy to get.
- Tretinoin: Great formulation, cost effective.
Read my posts on how to use retinoids, especially on the face. You can ask your dermatologist for a prescription.
Note: I do not treat KP, if you are after a prescription, please see my colleagues.
What are other rare variants of keratosis pilaris?
Your dermatologist can grade your type of KP according to the clinical variants. Treatments can be modified accordingly.
Keratosis pilaris pustulosa: infected pustular KP, usually affecting the legs & arms. Worse with occlusion, sweating & humidity. Best treated with keratolytics & antibacterial compounds.
Keratosis pilaris affecting the eyebrows or Ulerythema ophryogenes: rare but well-known loss of eyebrows secondary to inflammation. I occasionally get involved in this form as I can do FUE brow transfer. Your KP must be quiescent for 2 years before this procedure.
Keratosis pilaris atrophicans: atrophic divots due to KP. Inflammation takes out some collagen surrounding the hair follicle. Can be difficult to treat.
Erythomelanosis folliculitis facei et colli: pigmented brown & red variant, difficult to treat. Vascular & pigment lasers can rarely be successful.
Keratosis alba pilaris: white bumps, little red. Treated with keratolytics.
Disclaimer: If you require laser, see my nurses at Cutis Dermatology. They have extensive experience in treating this condition.
Can lasers treat KP?
Lasers can give some improvement for keratosis rubra pilaris. The rubra means red. The results are viable, some respond well, others do not. In most cases we use super high power with a short pulse duration. This means bruising is not uncommon.
My team employs vascular lasers & IPL to reduce the redness. Most require 3 – 4 sessions. Book a consultation with my laser nurses or colleagues at Clinic Cutis.
Disclaimer: I do not treat KP as my work is primarily surgical. My team has my laser settings & protocols for KP.
Which famous people have KP?
Ex-president Bill Clinton (KP worse after a Monica special), as well as the Royal Family have KP. Google this & you will see they have KP of the face (KP rubra facei). Think about this for a minute. These people have access to the best dermatologists in the world, and they still have KP. This means this condition is hard to treat.
The natural history of KP is to improve after the 4th decade of life, Prince William still has residual KP on his cheeks.
What is the go with sun, tanning & KP?
Sun tanning reduces the look of KP. Increased melanin hides redness. You must weigh up the balance between KP, skin cancer risk & photoaging. For darker skin patients, the risk of cancer is low, but photoaging does not discriminate against race. Be guided by your dermatologist.
What is the best loofah to get?
Loofahs provide physical exfoliation. The ideal type depends on the location of KP, use a gentle fine grit one for your face & a coarse one for your arms-legs. Think of it as different grits of sandpaper.
A Clarisonic is a mechanical brush. It does not offer any advantages over traditional loofahs. Tip: use salicylic acid wash with your loofah, La Roche Posay or Cerave make good ones.
Will you pass on keratosis pilaris to your children?
Yes, you might. KP runs in families & is more common in people with atopy (asthma, eczema, hay fever, allergic rhinitis).
Who to see for KP treatments?
A general medical dermatologist can help you. They can prescribe compounded topicals based upon your type of keratosis pilaris. For exceptional cases of KP rubra facei, vascular lasers & IPL can be useful in some but not all cases.
Note: I do not treat KP, please see my colleagues at Clinic Cutis.
So what does a typical KP treatment program look like?
An optimal program looks something like this-
- Exfoliation with loofah & salicylic acid washes in shower three times a week.
- Application of 20% lactic acid lotion twice a week.
- Application of 4th Generation topical retinoid once a week
- Fake tan applied properly can camouflage KP on the arms & leg
Your dermatologist may add special ingredients to the mix including chlorhexidine or thymol in summer (KP pustulosa). For special occasions, they may prescribe you an anti-inflammatory short-term or on a rotational basis. Be guided by them.
Davin’s Viewpoint on Keratosis Pilaris
In a phrase, Prince William & Harry have this condition, if they cannot cure KP, your dermatologist won’t have a chance. KP is common, most cases do not cause problems, with the exception of severe keratosis pilaris rubra faceii & scarring loss of eyebrows due to KP or ulerythema ophryogenes.
If your skin type allows, sensible tanning can reduce the look of KP, especially if there is any redness. The use of simple keratolytics can help. Bang for bucks, 20% lactic acid lotion or super cheap & nasty skincare acids from The Ordinary can help.
Lasers can be helpful in some cases, especially facial KP. We employ pulse dye 595, 755 alex & LP Nd Yag 1064 in addition to IPL. Settings are high, about 50% respond after 3-4 sessions. Laser is not a cure for KP, there is no cure for KP. It just corrects itself when it is time.
Disclaimer: I do not treat KP, as this is medical. My nurses have my KP laser protocols. Please book an appointment with them.