Pigmentation skin care: 7 ingredients to look for
Here are my top tips for treating skin pigmentation. These compounds are readily available in most pharmacies, or through our online store at The Formulated.
Arbutin
Arbutin is a naturally-occurring compound found in plants such as bearberry, blueberry, and pear trees. It is often used as a skin-lightening agent in cosmetics and personal care products, as it is believed to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to our skin. It is also used to treat hyperpigmentation and age spots. Arbutin is considered to be safe and effective when used as directed.
Arbutin is believed to work by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, arbutin can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and age spots, resulting in a more even skin tone. Arbutin can also help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation by blocking the formation of new melanin. It is typically used in the form of a cream or lotion that is applied to the affected area of the skin, and is often combined with other ingredients such as kojic acid, vitamin C, and hydroquinone for added effectiveness.
Ascorbic acid or vitamin C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that plays a number of important roles in skin health. It can help to protect the skin from damage caused by UV rays, pollution and other environmental stressors. It can also help to boost collagen production, a protein that gives the skin its structure and elasticity.
Topically applied Vitamin C can help to brighten the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin tone and texture. Additionally, Vitamin C has been shown to be effective in treating hyperpigmentation, age spots, and melasma. It also helps to neutralize free radicals that can lead to acne, eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions.
Vitamin C is typically used in the form of a serum, which is applied to the skin before moisturizer. It’s important to use a product with a high enough concentration of Vitamin C and in a stable formula to ensure effectiveness.
Vitamin C helps to reduce pigmentation in the skin by inhibiting the production of melanin. Melanin is the pigment that gives color to our skin and is responsible for the appearance of age spots, freckles, and other forms of hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin C has been shown to inhibit the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, vitamin C can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even skin tone. Additionally, Vitamin C can help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation by blocking the formation of new melanin. Vitamin C also has antioxidant properties, so it can neutralize free radicals that can lead to uneven skin tone, discoloration and pigmentation issues.
It’s important to note that while Vitamin C is an effective ingredient to lighten pigmentation, it should be used in conjunction with other ingredients and a good sun protection routine to enhance the results and prevent further pigmentation. You can find a great range of cosmeceutical vitamin C serums at The Formulated.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally-occurring compound found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. It is also produced by a yeast that lives on the skin called Malassezia furfur. Azelaic acid is used in a variety of skin care products, including creams and gels, as a treatment for a variety of skin conditions including acne, rosacea and pigmentation issues.
Azelaic acid has antimicrobial properties, which means it can help to kill bacteria that contribute to the development of acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to reduce redness and swelling associated with rosacea. Additionally, it has been shown to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, age spots, and melasma. Azelaic acid is believed to treat pigmentation by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, azelaic acid can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even skin tone. Additionally, azelaic acid can help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation by blocking the formation of new melanin.Azelaic acid is considered to be safe and well-tolerated when used as directed. It can be used alone or in combination with other pigment inhibiting agents.
It’s important to note that results may vary depending on the individual and the severity of the pigmentation, the concentration of the Azelaic acid in the product and the frequency of usage. A professional consultation with a dermatologist or skin care professional is recommended for personalized advice. My concentration for treating melasma and other forms of skin pigmentation typically ranges from 10-20% azelaic acid.
Bearberries & botanicals
Bearberry, also known as Uva Ursi, is a plant that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its medicinal properties. The leaves of the plant are rich in compounds such as arbutin, which is known for its skin lightening and brightening properties, hence is used to treat pigmentation disorders such as melasma.
Bearberry extract is commonly used in skin care products, particularly those that are formulated to treat pigmentation issues, such as age spots and hyperpigmentation. The arbutin found in bearberry extract can help to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to our skin, which can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone. Bearberry extract treats skin pigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to our skin. The primary active ingredient in bearberry that provides this benefit is arbutin. Arbutin is a naturally-occurring compound that is similar to hydroquinone, which is a common skin lightening agent.
Arbutin works by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, arbutin can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and age spots, resulting in a more even skin tone. Arbutin can also help to prevent the formation of new pigmentation by blocking the formation of new melanin.
Bearberry extract is considered to be a milder alternative to hydroquinone, and is generally considered to be safe and well-tolerated when used as directed. It is often used in conjunction with other ingredients such as Vitamin C, Kojic acid, and other antioxidants to enhance the results.
In addition to its skin lightening properties, bearberry extract also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds that can help to protect the skin from damage caused by UV rays, pollution and other environmental stressors, and promote healthy skin.
Bearberry extract is commonly found in a variety of skin care products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It’s important to use a product with a high enough concentration of bearberry extract and a stable formula to ensure effectiveness. It’s always best to consult with a skincare professional or a dermatologist before starting a new skincare routine or product.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is a natural compound that is derived from various types of fungi and is used primarily as a skin-lightening agent. It is often used in skin care products to help lighten dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation, including age spots, freckles, and melasma.
Kojic acid works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to our skin. It does this by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, kojic acid can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone.
Kojic acid is considered to be safe and effective when used as directed. However, it can cause some skin irritation, particularly in those with sensitive skin, so it is important to patch test before applying it to the entire face. It is often used in conjunction with other skin lightening ingredients such as arbutin, hydroquinone, and Vitamin C to enhance the results.
Kojic acid is commonly found in a variety of skin care products, including creams, lotions, serums, and peels. It’s important to use a product with a high enough concentration of kojic acid and a stable formula to ensure effectiveness. My concentration for melasma ranges from 0.2 to 1.8% kojic acid.
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is commonly used in chemical peels, exfoliating creams, and other skin care products to improve skin texture, tone, and pigmentation.
Glycolic acid works by exfoliating the top layers of the skin, removing dead skin cells and revealing brighter, more even-toned skin. It also helps to stimulate collagen production, which can improve skin elasticity and firmness.
Additionally, Glycolic acid can also help to reduce pigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin. It does this by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, glycolic acid can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone. The main action however, is to increase the turnover of skin, in turn reducing skin pigmentation. My usual prescription for melasma treatment is 10-50% glycolic acid, low pH, short contact AHA peeling.
It’s important to note that Glycolic acid can cause skin irritation, particularly in those with sensitive skin, so it is important to patch test before applying it to the entire face. It’s also important to use sun protection after using glycolic acid as it increases the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays. It’s always best to consult with a skincare professional or a dermatologist before starting a new skincare routine or product containing glycolic acid.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a skin-lightening agent that is used to reduce the appearance of dark spots, age spots, and other forms of hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives color to our skin. Hydroquinone is considered to be one of the most effective skin lightening agents available, but also one of the most controversial.
Hydroquinone works by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. By reducing the production of melanin in the skin, hydroquinone can help to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone. It can be used alone or in combination with other ingredients such as kojic acid, arbutin, and glycolic acid to enhance the results.
It’s important to note that Hydroquinone is a prescription-only medication in some countries and over-the-counter in others, it is important to check your local regulations. Hydroquinone is considered to be safe and effective when used as directed. However, it can cause some side effects and safety concerns when used in high concentrations or over an extended period of time.
One of the main concerns is the risk of developing exogenous ochronosis, a rare but serious condition characterized by darkening and thickening of the skin. Exogenous ochronosis is caused by long-term use of hydroquinone, usually in concentrations higher than 2%, and it is more common in people with darker skin tones.
Another concern is that hydroquinone can cause skin irritation, particularly in those with sensitive skin. It can also cause redness, stinging, and burning.
There are also concerns that hydroquinone may be carcinogenic. However, studies have not yet confirmed this and more research is needed.
Given the potential side effects, hydroquinone is a prescription-only medication in some countries and the use of hydroquinone is limited in others. It is important to check your local regulations. It’s always best to consult with a skincare professional or a dermatologist before starting a new skincare routine or product containing hydroquinone and to follow the recommended usage. My typical HQ concentration for melasma treatment ranges from 2% to 8%, the latter is for short contact hydroquinone.
How to start these skin care ingredients:
Now that you know about these powerful skin care products, let us start.
To start using creams for pigmentation, you should first consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the cause of your pigmentation and to determine the best treatment options for your specific skin type. They may recommend a specific cream or a combination of products. It’s important to use the cream as directed, and to protect your skin from further sun damage by wearing sunscreen and avoiding prolonged sun exposure. Be patient, it may take several weeks to see improvement.
Layering skincare products for pigmentation is a technique used to maximize the benefits of each product by applying them in a specific order. The order in which you apply your skincare products is important because it ensures that each product is able to penetrate the skin effectively. It’s good to give each product some time to absorb before applying the next one.Here’s a general guide to layering your skincare products:
- Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, makeup, and impurities from the skin.
- Tone: Use a toner to restore the skin’s pH balance and prepare the skin for the next steps.
- Treat: Apply any targeted treatment products such as serums, essences, or acids.
- Moisturize: Use a moisturizer to hydrate the skin and lock in the benefits of the previous steps.
- Sunscreen: Finish with a sunscreen to protect the skin from UV rays.
Troubleshooting; skin irritation following overzealous use
The higher the concentration of actives, the higher the chances of skin irritation. For example; 5-8% hydroquinone will cause skin irritation in 80% of patients, as compared to only 5% for 2% hydroquinone. The threshold for ascorbic acid is around 25% L-ascorbic, whilst kojic acid is around 2%. To treat skin irritation, you can try the following:
- Cleanse the area with a gentle, non-irritating cleanser.
- Apply a cold compress to the area to reduce inflammation and redness.
- Avoid further irritation by avoiding harsh soaps, hot water, and any other irritants that may be causing the problem.
- Moisturize the area to prevent dryness and cracking. Use a fragrance-free, hypoallergenic moisturizer.
- If the irritation is severe or accompanied by other symptoms such as fever or infection, consult a doctor or dermatologist.
- Avoid scratching or picking at the irritated area to prevent infection and further irritation.
- try over-the-counter creams that contain hydrocortisone or aloe vera to reduce itching and inflammation.
- If the irritation is caused by an allergic reaction, your doctor may recommend taking an antihistamine or prescribing a topical or oral steroid to reduce inflammation.
It’s important to take care of your skin, and be aware of what products or environmental factors may be causing the irritation.
