Skincare summary; Davin’s Tips
Here are my favorite go to tips on skincare.
- Anti-aging serums: keep it simple. Retinol, AHAs such as glycolic acids, vitamin C.
- Anti-pigment skin care: Hydroquinone if you are serious about shifting pigment, azelaic acid if you have sensitive skin.
- Antioxidants: Vitamin C, E, ferulic acid, niacinamide, silimarin.
- Sensitive skin: hyaluronic acid, squalene, paraffin, emollients. Keep it simple.
- Acne skincare: see a dermatologist for retinoids if you are serious about shifting acne. You can try BHA washes, and retinol at home.
What age should I start a skincare routine? It’s generally recommended to start incorporating a basic skincare routine in your teenage years, around age 12-15. This includes cleaning your face twice a day, using sunscreen, and moisturizing.
As you get older, you may need to adjust your routine to address specific concerns such as wrinkles or age spots. My ethos is directed skin care; namely skin care with a purpose, based upon clinical indication/s and your goals.
Anti-acne skin care
An anti-acne skincare routine typically involves a wash with salicylic acid, as well as topicals including retinol/retinoids, anti-inflammatory topicals and agents to dry up pimples and pustules. The combination of ingredients depends on the type of acne, location of pimples, and your skin’s sensitivity to products. As a guide-
Cleanse: Use a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your face. Cleanse twice a day, in the morning and at night. Salicylic acid washes range from 1% to 2%.
Treat: Use products that contain active ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or retinoids to target and reduce acne.
Moisturize: Acne-prone skin still needs hydration, so use a light, oil-free moisturizer to keep skin balanced.
Sun Protection: Sunscreen is important for preventing acne and acne scars. Use a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 50 and broad-spectrum protection.
Anti-aging skin care
An anti-aging skincare routine ranges from simple to complex. The latter takes into account your skin type, sensitivities, goals, as well as your age. A routine typically includes the following steps:
- Cleanse: Use a gentle, non-irritating cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your face. Cleanse twice a day, in the morning and at night.
- Exfoliate: Gently exfoliate your skin using a chemical exfoliant such as glycolic acid or lactic acid to remove dead skin cells and brighten your complexion.
- Treat: Use products that contain active ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants to target and reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging.
- Moisturize: Use a moisturizer that is formulated for your skin type and that contains ingredients to hydrate and plump your skin.
- Sun Protection: Sunscreen is important for preventing further skin damage caused by sun exposure. Use a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 50 and broad-spectrum protection. La Roche Posay and Melan 130 are great products.
It’s important to note that everyone’s skin is different, and it’s always recommended to consult a dermatologist for personalized recommendations for your skin type. It’s also important to maintain a healthy lifestyle, including a balanced diet, regular exercise, and adequate sleep, which can help to improve the overall health of your skin.
Retinol vs retinoids: which is better?
Retinoids and retinol are both forms of vitamin A that are commonly used in skincare products to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging. They are also used to improve skin texture and tone, and to help clear up acne.
Retinoids are prescription-strength vitamin A derivatives that are available in different forms such as tretinoin, tazarotene, and adapalene, and they are only available by prescription. They are considered to be more potent and effective than over-the-counter retinols because they are able to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Retinol is a weaker form of vitamin A that is available over-the-counter and it is considered to be less irritating than retinoids. It can be converted into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A, by the skin cells, but it may take longer to see results when compared to the retinoids.
Both retinoids and retinol can be effective in improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging, but retinoids are generally considered to be more potent and effective, at the expense of side effects such as redness, flaky skin, and localized skin irritation. IMO – go for retinols over retinoids, purely because they are easier to modulate.
Why are antioxidants super important in any anti-aging skin care routine?
Antioxidants are substances that can help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are molecules that can harm cells. These antioxidants can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the skin’s texture, and protect the skin from environmental damage. They are important in skin care because they help to neutralize the harmful effects of free radicals, which can lead to skin aging and other problems.
- Vitamin C: helps to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Vitamin E: helps to moisturize the skin and protect it from damage caused by free radicals.
- Green tea: contains compounds called catechins that have antioxidant properties and can help to soothe and calm the skin.
- Resveratrol: found in grapes and red wine, helps to protect the skin from UV damage and improve skin elasticity.
- Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10): helps to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Niacinamide: helps to brighten the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Ferulic acid: helps to protect the skin from UV damage and to improve skin’s overall appearance.
- Astaxanthin: powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from UV damage and improve skin elasticity.
- Alpha-Lipoic Acid: helps to reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and texture.
Which is better; hyaluronic acid serums or injectables?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring substance in the body that plays a key role in maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. It can be found in both topical skincare products and as an injectable filler.
Hyaluronic acid serum is a topical skincare product that is applied to the skin and is designed to hydrate and plump the skin by delivering a high concentration of HA. It can be used as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine to improve the overall appearance of the skin.
Hyaluronic acid injections, also known as dermal fillers, are a cosmetic treatment that are injected into the skin to add volume and plumpness to specific areas of the face, such as the cheeks, lips, and under-eye area. These injections are usually done by a licensed healthcare professional and may require multiple sessions to achieve the desired results.
Both hyaluronic acid serum and hyaluronic acid injections can be effective in hydrating and plumping the skin, but the effects of the injections will last longer than the topical serum. Additionally, the injections may have more immediate results, while the serum may take a bit longer to see the results- if you see any at all.
Anti-pigmentation skin care
Skin pigmentation is complex, with over 150 causes. The ideal skin care line depends on the cause. As a guide anti-pigmentation skincare routine typically includes the following steps:
- Cleanse: Use a gentle, non-irritating cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your face. Cleanse twice a day, in the morning and at night.
- Exfoliate: Gently exfoliate your skin using a chemical exfoliant such as glycolic acid or lactic acid to remove dead skin cells and brighten your complexion.
- Treat: Use products that contain active ingredients such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, or retinoids to target and reduce pigmentation.
- Moisturize: Use a fragrance-free, hypoallergenic moisturizer to hydrate your skin.
- Sun Protection: Sunscreen is important for preventing further pigmentation caused by sun exposure. Use a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 50 and broad-spectrum protection.
Most cases of pigmentation will benefit from adjective procedures such as chemical peels, fractional and picosecond lasers.
Anti-redness skin care
An anti-redness skincare routine typically includes the following steps:
- Cleanse: Use a gentle, non-irritating cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your face. Cleanse twice a day, in the morning and at night. Avoid using hot water, which can aggravate redness. La Roche Posay, Aveene & Cetaphil manufactures specific skin care products designed to reduce redness and skin sensitivity.
- Tone: Use a toner that contains ingredients such as green tea, chamomile, or aloe vera to soothe and calm redness. Though you can apply some form of toners, I do not recommend it if you have sensitive skin or acute flare ups.
- Moisturize: Use a fragrance-free, hypoallergenic moisturizer to hydrate your skin without causing irritation. The Rosaliac range from La Roche is excellent.
- Sun Protection: Sunscreen is important for preventing redness caused by sun exposure. Use a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 50 and broad-spectrum protection. I prefer physical protection over chemical sunscreen for sensitive skin.
- Avoid irritants: Avoid using products that contain harsh ingredients, fragrances, or alcohol, which can irritate your skin.
- Use Products with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients: Products containing ingredients such as niacinamide, azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid and squalene as they can help reduce redness and inflammation.
Are more expensive brands better?
The price of a skincare product does not always indicate its effectiveness. Expensive skincare brands may use high-quality ingredients and advanced technologies in their products, but that does not mean that they are better than more affordable brands.
It’s more important to look at the ingredients in the product and how they will benefit your specific skin type. It’s also important to check the product’s label and see if it contains potential irritants and allergens.
Some of the expensive brands may have good reputation and satisfied customers, but that doesn’t mean that they are the best fit for your skin. Some drugstore or affordable brands may have similar ingredients and provide the same results.
It’s always recommended to try small samples of a product before committing to a full-size purchase. Consult a dermatologist or skin care expert for personalized recommendations, they can help you to find the best product for your skin type and budget.
For more information on starting a skincare routine, consult my nurses at Cutis Dermatology, Brisbane. They have extensive knowledge of skin, including skin directed procedures such as lasers, chemical peels, injectables and more. Please note I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves directed procedures, and not skin care.