Humectants at a glance
| Best used: AM/PM Multiple times a day | Caution: Well tolerated | Best for: Moisturiser, dry skin, normal skin |
| Comments: One of the building blocks of skin care | Mode of action: Increases epidermal water content | Science Score: ***** |
What are humectants?
Humectants are common molecules added to many cosmetic moisturizers. They act by drawing water from the environment & also the lower layers of skin. This hydrates the upper layers of skin.
What are naturally occurring humectants?
Naturally occurring humectants include lactic acid (origin of sour milk), aloe vera (plant based), honey & glycerin. In most cases preservatives are added to these products in order to increase the shelf life. For more on totally natural solutions, consult your naturopath.
What are the most common humectants found in cosmetic products?
Moisturizers usually contain a mix of humectants, emollients & occlusives. The most common humectants found in cosmetic products include-
- Hyaluronic acid
- Lactic acid
- Glycerin
- Propylene Glycol
- Butylene Glycol
- Aloe Vera Gel
View our Treatment Gallery
How should I incorporate humectants into my daily skin care?
Don’t overthink it, unless you have a true allergic reaction to a particular ingredient (confirmed as a true allergy on patch testing). If you have super dry skin, possibly emollients & occlusive ointments may be required. Examples include dermatitis, eczema & xerosis. If you have normal skin and would like a good moisturizer, choose a product that suits your skin type. Hyaluronic acid is a good start.
Why is hyaluronic acid a good humectant?
Yes, hyaluronic acid can be used on top of your skin (as well as injected into the dermal layers). Applied to skin, hyaluronic acid is one of the best humectants as it is non-irritating & holds over 1000 times it’s molecular weight in water. Most cosmetic companies will have varying sizes of hyaluronic acids (cross-linking). Smaller molecules penetrate deeper into the epidermis, whilst larger molecules sit on the top layer. This allows for even absorption & skin hydration.
Even the smallest hyaluronic acid molecules can not penetrate the basement layer that separates the upper skin or epidermis from the lower dermis. For dermal hydration, hyaluronic acid requires an injection. This is the basis of dermal fillers. Even though hyaluronic acid acts as a powerful humectant, the true value of this molecule is best utilized under, not on the skin.
Though retinol & retinoids can be useful for pigmentation, there are FAR better options, namely HQ, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, #azelaic acid, & botanicals such as licorice root extract & bearberry extract. There’s a lot of marketing behind vitamin A, especially #retinol & pigmentation.
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👉The Problem: retinoids can reduce your skin’s threshold for irritation, meaning in some cases an irritant dermatitis can prevent the patient from using more effective pigment inhibitors, hence I am not a fan of the widely prescribed triple therapy. I prefer to titrate over time & introduce retinoids gradually, especially during the rotational phases
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👉📝How to start? Gradually. One night per week (especially if you are using other topicals which may irritate your skin), increase application of retinoid/retinol by one night per week, obviously titrating as tolerated
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💯👌🏻Practical tips: get your sunscreen application right before even thinking about products/brands. The rate limiting factor is photoprotection, not OTC products
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📍Brisbane: For simple cases of pigmentation & melasma, consult the nurses at @cutis_dermatology
📍Sydney: Clinic in the build stages; projected opening March 2024.
📧Expression of interest for consultations opening shortly. Limit of 10 new pigment patients per week
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🤖Skincare advice: currently writing an AI based Q&A based upon a distilled evidence based medicine, coming out in 3 weeks
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane | Sydney🇦🇺
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#pigmentation #melasmatips #melasma #retinol #retinoids #skincaretips #melasmapigmentation #drdavinlim #sydneydermatologist #themelasmaclinic
Green tea & the fuzzy bits of skin care 🍵
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👉Anti Aging: Protection against UV damage: Green tea contains antioxidants & free radical scavengers, protecting your DNA & collagen. In reality you are better off with topicals such as vitamin C & ferulic acid
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👉Acne: Catechins & polyphenols are antibacterial & anti-inflammatory in nature. Reduces sebum production (oil), adding to antiacne effects & can potentially reduce enlarged pores. Many better ways to treat acne
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👉Dark circles: Caffeine found in green tea acts as a vasoconstrictor, modulating blood flow under the eyes. You can’t get cheaper eye rejuvenation than using 2 tea bags under your eyes
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👉Oily skin: Green tea has been shown to reduce sebum or oil production in laboratory conditions. Thus it can be a useful adjunct to medically prescribed retinoids, in theory
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👉Inflamed Skin; Green Tea can calm down inflamed & angry skin. Inflammatory skin conditions include rosacea, acne, psoriasis & dermatitis. Want some results? Chuck some topical steroid
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👉Drink tea for the taste & the potential systemic benefits. If you are serious about skincare, there are far better alternatives
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#drdavinlim #dermatologistbrisbane #organicskincare #ecoskincare #greentea #tealife #teabagadermatologist #tea #healthytea
Hydroquinone remains as one of the most popular pigment inhibitors. It is still the most effective treatment for pigmentation including melasma, post acne pigment & as a bleaching cream in many Asian & African countries. Hydroquinone was made famous by Michael Jackson, who overdosed on this (as well as propofol).
Concentrations range from 2% to 8% or higher. In Australia this can be purchased over the counter with concentrations of 2% or less. Countries in Asia such as Japan, & many African countries ban the trade & sale of HQ.
Safety concerns are founded by murine studies (rats). Not substantiated. Biggest concerns are, firstly contact dermatitis with higher concentrations, tachyphylaxis (stops working) & exogenous ochronosis (hyperpigmentation instead of fading pigment). Majority of side effects can be mitigated with appropriate use & monitoring. Most dermatologists will limit its use to 3 to 6 months maximum. We rotate other pigment inhibitors such as arbutin, ascorbic acid, licorice root, soy, flavonoids, bearberries, cranberries, & exfoliants such as AHAs.
Accurate titration and application of hydroquinone will reduce side effects and maximise its use.
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Dr Davin Lim@drdavinlim
@101.skin
Brisbane, Australia
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#hydroquinone #postinflammatorypigmentation #melasma #pigmenttreatment #Skincare #skin #skincaretips #hydroquinonetips
For patients @cutis_dermatology, be guided by the dermal therapist or nurse assigned to your case🙏🏼
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Here’s how to incorporate retinol into your skin care regime:
The best time to use retinol is in the evening as this molecule is sun sensitive. Start every second night for the first fortnight, & increase as tolerated.
Retinoids can reduce outbreaks of acne, but it can take around 3 months to work.
Step 1: Wash your face with a bland formulation. Do not use skin care acids such as glycolic, lactic or salicylic acids prior to using retinol, as interactions can occur.
Step 2: Wait a few minutes until your skin is completely dry. This is important, because if your skin is still damp, the retinol will be able to absorb more deeply into your skin and might cause irritation.
Step 3: Take a pea-size amount of your retinol and apply with your fingertips in upward and outward motions. If you are unsure how your skin will react, conduct a test patch. This means to try application of a small amount of retinol to the front or the back of your ear.
Step 4: Finish with your moisturizer 30 minutes after application of your ‘actives.’
Step 5: Remember to rise & clean your face in the morning. You should apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen the morning after, as retinol makes skin more sensitive to the sun.
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👍🏻👀Advanced: DO NOT TRY THIS unless you have an understanding of your skin’s threshold.
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Who should not use retinol?
People with sensitive skin, including those who suffer from rosacea, dermatitis, or eczema should initiate retinol with absolute caution. For this skin type, consider starting with niacinamide, then retinol as vitamin B is less irritant compared to vitamin A.
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane 🇦🇺
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#retinol #retinoids #tretinoin #Skincare #skincaretips #dermatologist #dermatologisttips #glowingskin #acne #acneskincare #retinolguide
🙄 How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids! Keep reading & share if you find this post useful 😄
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) include #glycolicacid #lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid.
AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’ 🍊 historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active.
🧽 Salicylic acid (BHA) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin.
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, #melasma, #freckles, #sundamage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: #blackheads, #whiteheads, #congestedskin, #acne, #pimples #oilyskin
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🎬 Action: Shop my favourite cosmeceutical ranges on @theformulated
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⚠️Caution:Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution.
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of #cosmeticpeels performed by #dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35%, 50% then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients 👌
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology @theformulated
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Don't forget the sunscreen 🌞
Use this cheat sheet to help you navigate the back of bottles! What can be paired together?
It is only a guide as exceptions to the rule applies💯
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📈📉Think of this as what is represented on a bell curve, those who have sensitive skin will lie at opposite ends of the bell curve compared to those with resilient skin
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👉An example of resilient skin combinations include #tretinoin or #adapalene & AHAs or BHAs. Skin care acids can increase the absorption of retinoids, amplifying their effects. Conversely they can increase unwanted side effects such as skin irritation, flaking & stinging
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👉An example of a sensitive skin combination is adapalene with ascorbic acid. For those who lie at the end of the bell curve, this combination can be a problem. Just a topical retinoid alone can give rise to skin irritation. Combining it with a low pH formulation of say 10-20% L-ascorbic acid can markedly increase skin irritation.
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🏠Take Home Message: Use this guide as a guide. Listen to your skin & modify your topical accordingly
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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@cutis_dermatology
#skincare #skincarescience #skinscience #retinol #acneskincare #acnecure #acnetips #acneskincaretips #AHA #BHA #skincareacids #vitaminc #drdavinlim
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves lasering, cutting, deep peeling & injectables. I don’t do medical work, including #skincareadvice. The latter is given by our nurses & dermal therapist in the clinic
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If you have sensitive skin, it often takes several visits to a dermatologist to understand your skin barrier function & your skin’s threshold. In some cases they may order skin allergy testing to rule out contact dermatitis.
When it comes to Retinol, are you a beginner or ready for more? What is YOUR favourite product?
Comment below👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
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🔬Skin Science: For first time users or those with sensitive skin, start with a lower concentration of #retinol, or a precursor such as retinyl palmitate. The more steps it takes to convert to retinoic acid, the more gentle on the skin (as a general rule). HPC or hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an exception. This compound can potentially be more powerful than retinol without the side effects of retinoic acid. Understanding YOUR skin’s irritant threshold is super important. The earlier you understand this, the faster you can progress in your skincare journey
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👀📝Brands: There are literally hundreds of brands out there. My take? For more powerful formulations choose a serum. #Skinceuticals make great formulations, medium budget #Obagi, whilst #Murad makes great retinol (Youth Renewal Night Cream) for more sensitive skin
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🎯Precision over Power: Concentrate on precise application over powerful formulations- at least in the beginning. Once you understand how retinoids work & how your skin reacts, THEN explore other options
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🏎Advanced: Yes, combining AHA, BHA & physical exfoliation with retinoids is not a good idea. Advanced uses can ‘prime’ the skin by enhancing the efficacy of actives. DON’T try this if you don’t know your skin’s irritant threshold, nor how to salvage retinoid dermatitis/irritant dermatitis. I will do a video on this in the next 2 weeks
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😁Disclaimer: My work is procedural only. For skin care advice I will pass you to my team @cutis_dermatology
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#dermalscience #dermaltherapy #skincaretips #skincarescience #nofilte #skinrejuvenation #skincareroutine #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #brisbanedermatologist #beautytips #retinoltips #retinoidtips #retinolskincare #retinolskincaretips #theformulated
Your skin barrier function is one of the most critical parts of your skin health.
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🔬Skin Science: Your skin is super efficient at keeping out infection as well as irritants & molecules that can predispose to skin allergies. The outermost layer of your skin, known as the stratum corneum is the first line of defence. Skin barrier function can be disrupted in conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema), acne, rosacea, as well as self-inflicted causes such as over-exfoliation.
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👍🏻👀Repair: Simplify to amplify. Stop ALL your skincare products, yes, that includes sunscreen (only for a few days). Halt all your skincare actives, including your #retinol #retinoids, #ascorbic acid, #AHAs, #BHAs & harsh cleansers. In most cases barrier function can be re-established in 2-5 days, longer if you have dermatitis, rosacea or other skin conditions. In some cases a medical #dermatologist can guide you
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🤔🛒Ingredients to help barrier function: Include hyaluronic acid, squalene, ceramides, tocopherol & linoleic acid. The first #skincare active you should use once barrier function is established, is niacinamide
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🐟🛢Diet: some evidence that supplementation with omega fatty acids can help
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😎Dr Davin Lim
@the.formulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#dermatoloigstbrisbane #skinscience #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #acne #rosacea #niacinamide #skinbarrier #skinbarrierfunction #skincaretips #skinhealth #healthyskin #organicskincare #skincareroutine #drdavinlim #sensitiveskin #sensitiveskincare
What is niacinamide?
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Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is the go-to skin care active if you have rosacea &/or sensitive skin.
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This molecule can be combined with most actives. The action of this vitamin can give the following benefits to your skin.
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- Reduce inflammation & redness (blotchy skin)
- Reduce pigmentation from conditions such as melasma
- Establish barrier function in patients with dermatitis & eczema
- Offers modest immune function regulation from UV damage
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Dr Davin Lim,
Dermatologist AUS 🇦🇺
@Cutis_dermatology @theformulated
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#skincare #skincaretips #retinol #retinoid #dermatologist #tretinoin #dermatologistbrisbane #niacinamide #niacinamidetips #howto #skinroutine
How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids, read more & share if you find this post useful
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acids, (AHAs) include #glycolicacid#lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid. AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’🍊, historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids.🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active. Salicylic acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, melasma, sun damage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: blackheads, whiteheads, congested skin, acne, pimples and oily skin
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✅AHA/BHA: Fence sitting on this one. #enlargedpores; combination can exfoliate the surface (AHA), and penetrate into the oil glands (BHA).
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💯Recommended products: Bang for buck, you can’t go past The Ordinary. Their range of #AHAs and #BHAs provide skincare full of active ingredients at a reasonable price. Rationale AHA is also excellent, whist Neostrata provides great AHA formulations. Neutrogena Oil Free scrub contains salicylic acid. The formulation really comes down to personal preference. .
⚠️Caution: Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of cosmetic peels performed by dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35,50 then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients.
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Dr Davin Lim @cutis_dermatology
Bris Vegas, 🇦🇺
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#melasma #sundamage #blackheads #whiteheads #congestedskin #acne #pimples #oilyskin #dermatologists #Skincare #skincaretips #dermatologytips
6 ingredients perfect for hyperpigmentation
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☀️Firstly, sunscreen use can reduce pigmentation by up to 50%. Get it, use it. Use it properly before spending $$$ on other products
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🌾Azelaic acid: derived from wheat, great ingredient if you have sensitive skin
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🍊Ascorbic acid: multi-tasker, pigment inhibitor, anti-oxidant & builds collagen. Caution if you have sensitive skin
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👀Kojic acid: awesome when combined with arbutin, citric acid, & botanical pigment correctors, caution in high concentrations (contact dermatitis)
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🌻Arbutin: found in many pigment correctors, naturally good (beta), alpha is lab made, converts to HQ, concentration regulated in most countries
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🧪Hydroquinone: the big daddy of pigment correctors. For every month of use, give at least 2 weeks break. Example: 3 month use, at least 6 week break. Treat with respect, irritant contact dermatitis, tachyphylaxis (stops working), ochronosis (pigment gets worse
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👍🏻Niacinamide: anti-inflammatory, pigment corrector, great for sensitive skin. 5-20%, often combined with other key ingredients
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🎬Action: if you are struggling with pigment, see my nurses at Cutis Dermatology. They are awesome at correcting pigmentation- FAST
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane 🇦🇺
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#pigmentation #melasma #pigmentcorrectors #pigmentationcure #melasma #drdavinlim
#dermatologistbrisbane #brisbanedermatologist #pigmentationcorrectors #pigmentationskincare #arbutin #azelaicacid
Skin barrier function is critical for skin health
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🔬Skin Science: Your skin is super efficient at keeping out infection as well as irritants & molecules that can predispose to skin allergies. The outermost layer of your skin, known as the stratum corneum is the first line of defence. Skin barrier function can be disrupted in conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema), acne, rosacea, as well as self-inflicted causes such as over-exfoliation
.
.
👍🏻👀Repair: Simplify to amplify. Stop ALL your skincare products, yes, that includes sunscreen (only for a few days). Halt all your skincare actives, including your #retinol #retinoids, #ascorbic acid, #AHAs, #BHAs & harsh cleansers. In most cases barrier function can be re-established in 2-5 days, longer if you have dermatitis, rosacea or other skin conditions. In some cases a medical #dermatologist can guide you
.
.
🤔🛒Ingredients to help barrier function: Include hyaluronic acid, squalene, ceramides, tocopherol & linoleic acid. The first #skincare active you should use once barrier function is established, is niacinamide
.
🐟🛢Diet: some evidence that supplementation with omega fatty acids can help
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
@the.formulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#skinbarrier #skinbarrierfunction #skincaretips #skinhealth #healthyskin #organicskincare #skincareroutine #drdavinlim #sensitiveskin #sensitiveskincare #dermatoloigstbrisbane #skinscience #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #acne #rosacea #niacinamide
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist. I cut, lase, peel, fill, inject. For medical conditions including managing sensitive skin, my colleagues @cutis_dermatology can assist.
For skincare advice my clinical team of nurses & dermal therapist will guide you. 👌🏻
What do you think of this order? How do you layer products? Comment below!
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🔬Skin Science: Why is getting the order correct so important? Firstly penetration of skincare actives. An example is application of water based products over an oil based solution will markedly reduce penetration of the former. Efficacy is hence compromised. On the flipside, applying serums on top of an oil based solution can leave your skin dry & ‘dehydrated’
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👍🏻Apply thinnest to thickest, light to heavy. Start off with toners, & serums, followed by lotions, creams & then oils
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💦Water based before oil based
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📈Lowest pH to highest pH
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🛒Pick & Choose: Not everyone requires a TONER or an EYE CREAM. If you use a product, make sure it is for a PURPOSE. IMO most people can skip skin eye creams, however if you suffer from say, sensitive eyes, using a paraffin based cream can reduce skin irritation. Conversely if you have #darkcircles due to vascular changes, then a caffeine - argan oil - vitamin K - peptide - hyaluronic acid based eye cream maybe indicated
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🧴Serums vs creams: Serums have more potential to deliver high concentrations of skin care actives such as #retinol, #ascrobicacid, ferulic acid, vitamin E, & skin care acids. In some cases, serums may not be tolerated on sensitive skin. In this situation using a CREAM Based formulation maybe better
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😎Davin Lim
Brisbane🇦🇺
@drdavinlim @cutis_dermatology
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#skinscience #beautyscience #dermatologist #brisbanedermatologist #drdavinlim #skincareguide #skincaretips #skincareroutine #skincarelayering #skincarecommunity #dermatologytips
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Disclaimer: My work is entirely procedural ( cut, lase, peel, inject etc…)- skin care advice is provided by my clinical staff. If you have complex skin issues such as acne, rosacea, eczema, sensitive skin, dry skin, possible contact dermatitis & allergies, please contact @cutis_dermatology to arrange a consultation with one of my medical colleagues
5 No BS tips that every dermatologist will agree upon. Save yourself that consult fee💰
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🗂Know your skin’s threshold: This is the number one tip. Everyone will have a different threshold, exceed this & your skin will be irritated. By understanding your limits, you will understand what you can, or cannot tolerate. #retinol/#retinoid, & vitamin C- #ascorbicacid are prime examples. Some patients can only tolerate once a week application, others nightly. Think before you buy
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🔎Be precise with your skin care: A skincare regime has a goal, what do you want to achieve? Focus on the goal & work to it. As with a threshold, each active product you apply has the potential of lowering your threshold, this means if you exceed your threshold, subsequent actives may potentially cause skin irritation. Think before you apply
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✔Cleanse: Twice a day only, any more and you may develop irritant dermatitis (then you need to see a dermatologist to fix that up). Let your skin breathe, don’t sleep with make up or you will clog up your #pores. If you have #sensitiveskin, skip the exfoliation, toners & acids
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😛Sugar is not your skin’s friend: Besides it’s gonna make you fat. High glycemic index treats can worsen #acne & #oilyskin
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🌞Sunscreen is never overrated: Cornerstone of #skincare. Invest in a sunscreen that you actually like & use it. Frequently. Don’t skim on the amount. ¾ teaspoon face & neck. Twice a day. Not negotiable. Don’t be SPF tightarse
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💬Bonus tip: Don’t smoke. In Oz a pack of durries will cost ya over 40 bucks. Think how much #botox & #juvederm you can afford if you quit. Re-invest this with procedures that actually work. Health skin, no heart attacks, no stroke, no cancer, can you ask for more?
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😎Davin’s Protip: Your skincare need not be complex, simple works. Be precise, know your goals, know your threshold, don’t be impulsive with your product selection. Buy me a coffee, I just saved you a consult fee
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Dr Davin Lim @Cutis_dermatology
BrisVegas 🇦🇺
#dermatologist
#healthyskin #instaskincare #loveskincare #skincareaddict #skincarecommunity #skincarejunkie #skincareguru #sunscreen #dermatologist
Did you know that acne has certain patterns? There are overlapping patterns, however this face map is pretty accurate
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👉Hairline acne can be due to products. It can also be due to occlusion & friction, namely acne mechanica
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👉T Zone acne is common, especially in those with really oily skin, known as seborrhoea
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👉Cheeks can be involved with all forms of acne, from #maskne through to acne rosacea
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👉Dots around the mouth & nose area is common with perioral dermatitis
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👉Jawline acne is suggestive of hormonal imbalance, either endocrine, intracrine or both
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👉Ears are involved in acne inversa or hidradenitis suppurativa
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🎬Action: Be guided by your dermatologist as to the correct treatments for your acne
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
@101.skin
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, I do not prescribe- treat acne. For management please see my colleagues @cutis_dermatology
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#acnetips #acnetreatment #zits #zitcure #nomorezits #pimples #pimpletreatment #pimplecream #retinol #skincaretips #skincarescience #skincareroutine #acneskincare #dermatologistbrisbane #drdavinlim #rosacea #skinscience
Are you a beginner, intermediate or advanced retinol-retinoid user? What is YOUR favourite product?
Comment below👇🏻👇🏻👇🏻
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🔬Skin Science: For first time users or those with sensitive skin, start with a lower concentration of #retinol, or a precursor such as retinyl palmitate. The more steps it takes to convert to retinoic acid, the more gentle on the skin (as a general rule). HPC or hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an exception. This compound can potentially be more powerful than retinol without the side effects of retinoic acid. Understanding YOUR skin’s irritant threshold is super important. The earlier you understand this, the faster you can progress in your skincare journey
.
.
👀📝Brands: There are literally hundreds of brands out there. My take? For more powerful formulations choose a serum. #Skinceuticals make great formulations, medium budget #Obagi, whilst #Murad makes great retinol (Youth Renewal Night Cream) for more sensitive skin
.
.
🎯Precision over Power: Concentrate on precise application over powerful formulations- at least in the beginning. Once you understand how retinoids work & how your skin reacts, THEN explore other options
.
.
🏎Advanced: Yes, combining AHA, BHA & physical exfoliation with retinoids is not a good idea. Advanced uses can ‘prime’ the skin by enhancing the efficacy of actives. DON’T try this if you don’t know your skin’s irritant threshold, nor how to salvage retinoid dermatitis/irritant dermatitis. I will do a video on this in the next 2 weeks
.
.
😁Disclaimer: My work is procedural only. For skin care advice I will pass you to my team @cutis_dermatology
.
.
😎Dr Davin Lim
@cutis_dermatology @theformulated
Brisbane🇦🇺
#dermalscience #dermaltherapy #skincaretips #skincarescience #nofilte #skinrejuvenation #skincareroutine #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #brisbanedermatologist #beautytips #retinoltips #retinoidtips #retinolskincare #retinolskincaretips #theformulated
🙄 How to choose between alpha hydroxy & beta hydroxy acids! Keep reading & share if you find this post useful 😄
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🔬Skin science: Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) include #glycolicacid #lacticacid #citricacid #malicacid and #mandelicacid.
AHAs are also known as ‘fruit acids’ 🍊 historically these acids have been in use since the days of the pyramids🗻(True!) AHAs exfoliates the upper layers of skin (epidermis), hence its role in treating unwanted pigmentation. AHA’s also work in the deeper layer of skin, stimulating #collagen, hence its use as a powerful anti aging skincare active.
🧽 Salicylic acid (BHA) is fat soluble and has enhanced penetration into pores and sebaceous glands, hence its use in treating acne and blackheads. BHAs also have anti-inflammatory properties, useful in acne prone skin.
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✔AHA’s Best For: Chemical exfoliation, skin pigmentation, #melasma, #freckles, #sundamage, photodamage, wrinkles and collagen building.
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✔BHA’s Best For: #blackheads, #whiteheads, #congestedskin, #acne, #pimples #oilyskin
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🎬 Action: Shop my favourite cosmeceutical ranges on @theformulated
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⚠️Caution:Sensitive skin warning. If you have rosacea, dermatitis or just angry skin, procede with caution.
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😎Davs Protip: AHAs and BHAs form the foundation of #cosmeticpeels performed by #dermatologists. For AHA office peels I start at 20%, then 35%, 50% then 70%, whilst for #BHApeels I start at 15%, going up to 30% salicylic acid. Simple preps like Vaseline at the corner of the nose can reduce burns from AHAs. I rate hydroxy acids as one of my top 3 ingredients 👌
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Dr Davin Lim @cliniccutis @theformulated
Brisbane 🇦🇺
Have a safe weekend
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Don't forget the sunscreen 🌞
Not a complete list, but my most ‘prescribed’ in the context of cosmetics/aesthetic dermatology
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🔬A dermatologist ‘A’ list to #getshitdone goes something like: Corticosteroids, emollients,( petrolatum, glycerin), tacrolimus, 5 fluorouracil, #retinoids, terbinafine, crude coal tar, LPC /liquor picis carbonis, metronidazole, ivermectin, salicylic, lactic acids and more. You won’t find fluffy niacinamide, caffeine or botanical extracts in our daily prescribing habits. Ginseng, herbs & niacinamide ain’t going to fix your acne or skin inflammation
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👉Commercial skin care: caters for the joy of self-care, it’s fun. Nothing wrong with aloe vera, tea tree oil & plant extracts- just as long as you don’t get allergic contact dermatitis from it
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👍🏻Exceptions: Yes, I do prescribe fluffy stuff such as licorice root extracts, arbutin, bearberry extracts, citric acid, retinol & hydroxypinacolone retinoate, but that is mainly during the ‘cycling off phase’ for more potent topical applications. Fluff is still useful in some situations, even if it has a placebo effect💯
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#drdavinlim #davinlim #dermatologist #brisbanedermatology #hyaluronicacid #skincare
#bestskincare #skincaretips #skincarescience #skincareingredients #retinol #vitaminc #niacinamide
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Disclaimer: My work is entirely procedural (I cut, lase, do deep peels, & inject), for skincare advice please consult your dermatologist or skincare expert
Sebborheic dermatitis affects about 11% of the population and is super easy to treat!
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#dermatitis #Sebborheicdermatitis #dermatologistbrisbane #dermatologist #dermatolgy #Skincare #skincaretips #redness #eczema #flakyskin #dandruffremoval #dandruff #dryskin
This cheat sheet can help you navigate ingredient lists as to what can be paired together, it is only a guide as exceptions to the rule applies💯
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📈📉Think of this as what is represented on a bell curve, those who have sensitive skin will lie at opposite ends of the bell curve compared to those with resilient skin
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👉An example of resilient skin combinations include #tretinoin or #adapalene & AHAs or BHAs. Skin care acids can increase the absorption of retinoids, amplifying their effects. Conversely they can increase unwanted side effects such as skin irritation, flaking & stinging
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👉An example of a sensitive skin combination is adapalene with ascorbic acid. For those who lie at the end of the bell curve, this combination can be a problem. Just a topical retinoid alone can give rise to skin irritation. Combining it with a low pH formulation of say 10-20% L-ascorbic acid can markedly increase skin irritation.
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🏠Take Home Message: Use this guide as a guide. Listen to your skin & modify your topical accordingly
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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@cutis_dermatology
#skincare #skincarescience #skinscience #retinol #acneskincare #acnecure #acnetips #acneskincaretips #AHA #BHA #skincareacids #vitaminc #drdavinlim
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Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work involves lasering, cutting, deep peeling & injectables. I don’t do medical work, including #skincareadvice. The latter is given by our nurses & dermal therapist in the clinic
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If you have sensitive skin, it often takes several visits to a dermatologist to understand your skin barrier function & your skin’s threshold. In some cases they may order skin allergy testing to rule out contact dermatitis.
What is the difference between an occlusive and a humectant?
Occlusives including petroleum jelly, & mineral oil work by reducing water loss. These molecules sit on the top layer of skin, preventing TEWL or trans-epidermal water loss. Humectants on the other hand work by drawing moisture from the atmosphere & deeper dermis to hydrate the epidermis (top layer of skin). Occlusives are better choices if you have very dry skin, or compromised skin barrier- examples include post laser resurfacing & medium to deep chemical peels.
What are hair humectants?
Hair humectants are ingredients used in products to moisturize dry or damaged hair. They promote hydration by attracting water molecules from the local environment and binding them to specific sites along their structure. Hair humectants include glycerin, sorbitol, aloe vera, maltitol, propylene glycol & vitamin B5.
Davin’s Tip on the use of Humectants
Don’t over think the actual ingredient list as it is complex. Humectants, occlusives & emollients can all act as moisturisers. Occlusives & emollients are generally better for true pathology, namely xerosis, atopic eczema & impared barrier function. Most moisturizers combine variations of all three. If you do have issues with some ingredients, example possible allergic reactions, specific patch testing can be conducted by medical dermatologists. An infrequent culprit is propylene glycol, a popular humectant found in many formulations.
*Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, I do not perform patch testing. For product advice & ingredient information, please consult your treating specialist.
