Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Best used:AM or PM


Caution:Well tolerated by manyBest for: Moisturiser, sensitive skin
Comments: Best under not on the skin Mode of action:


Science Score:

***** (Dermal Fillers)


What is the science behind hyaluronic acid?

This miracle molecule is composed of ‘sugar molecules’ known as polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acids (referred to as HAs)is a naturally occurring ingredient found in skin, bones, joints & eyes. It helps keep skin taut & youthful, & acts as a lubricant in the joints. This skin care ingredient is in the form of gels, lotions, creams, masks, tablets, capsules & of course injectables. 

Hyaluronic acid can draw moisture from the environment to keep your skin moist, holding almost 1000 times its own weight in water. Hence it is not only a moisturizer, it has the ability to hold extra moisture. Found in the dermal layers of skin, HAs maintain skin integrity, reducing wrinkles & provides structural support.

What can hyaluronic acid do for my skin?

Due to their super water binding capacity, hyaluronic acid plays a key role in retaining skin moisture, making it an extraordinarily powerful humectant. This ingredient can benefit your skin care routine in the following ways-

  1. Fast acting moisturizer that retains water & reduces water loss.
  2. Anti Wrinkle effects by reducing fine lines. 
  3. Vehicle for other skin care ingredients such as vitamin A, B, C. The benign nature of this molecule allows it to be mixed with many other skin care products.
  4. Instant anti-aging effects. There is no other ingredient that can give instant effects with zero downtime. To date this is the most effective molecule in adding dermal & hypodermal volume, with the least amount of downtime.
  5. Flexibility with use. HAs can be used as a stand alone moisturizer, found in serums, creams & lotions. HAs can also be delivered in a mask, or a part of a mesotherapy procedure, such as with the Aquagold Facial. HAs can also be injected into various depths, including the dermis, hypodermis & even on top of bone. There is no other skin care ingredient that has the flexibility of hyaluronic acid. 


* As a procedural dermatologist hyaluronic acid is by far the most commonly prescribed ingredient in my practice. My preferred method of delivery? Injectables. To gain an understanding of what hyaluronic acid can do for your skin, visit the Dermal Filler section of this website. 


What is the best Hyaluronic Acid to use- serums, creams or…?

Injectables aside, hyaluronic acid can be delivered in serum (most popular), creams, gels, washes & masks. Maximum concentration is between 1 to 2%, any higher and water can be pulled from the deeper layers. Most serums contain varying molecular sizes of hyaluronic acid as this allows different depths of penetration. Cross linking (much like in dermal fillers), means that HAs last longer in the epidermis. Even with this increased penetration & stability, HAs are readily broken down by the enzyme hyaluronidase within 16 to 48 hours. 

Davin’s Viewpoint on Hyaluronic Acid

Probably the most flexible ingredient & the biggest plus for the aesthetic industry in the entire history of man, and woman-kind. There is no other ingredient (this includes retinoic acid, deep peels, & sunscreen) that has such a dramatic impact on skin with virtually zero downtime as compared to hyaluronic acids. Retinoids are plagued with side effects such as dryness, flaky & sensitive skin, sunscreens prevent (so in reality you do not see the effects), deep peels with chemicals such as phenol croton oil make a huge difference, however the downtime exceeds two weeks. The use of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers has revolutionised the skin industry. HAs not on provide volume, they displace skin, & can enhance your own fibroblasts to produce innate collagen. 

There are very little if any negatives with topical use as HAs are immunologically banal, meaning skin allergies are almost unheard of. If you are allergic to HAs it is more than likely due to the preservatives and or the vehicle. HAs can also enhance delivery of key ingredients such as retinoic acid, ascorbic acid, antioxidants & others by improving skin hydration. Dermatologists often employ the old fashioned, but highly effective method of ‘wet wraps’, namely to hydrate the epidermis after application of the chosen active. HA does this job, meaning improved transepidermal delivery of drugs such as retinoic acid. 

The absolute rate limiting factor with HAs is to find ways to deliver this large molecule through the skin’s gateway, known as the basement membrane. To date, even the smallest HAs can not penetrate through this barrier, hence why injections or mesotherapy is more effective than just topical application.

Profhilo is a new novel dermal filler released in 2022 (Australia). Profhilo main point of  difference is that it is biostimulatory, hence it uses your own immune system to stimulate collagen & adipocytes or fat cells. Think of it as a hyaluronic acid booster or accelerator for your skin. Each session takes 5 minutes to perform. Recommended 2 sessions, 4 weeks apart.

The future looks promising for the skin care ingredient of the century, and beyond.

Profhilo stimulates collagen with minimal volume displacement. This means improved skin laxity & tightening.

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