Rosehip Oil
| Best used: AM & or PM | Caution: Occlusive oil | Best for: Inflammatory acne, anti aging |
| Comments: Limited studies, anti doctaly can treat some forms of acne | Mode of action: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant | Science Score: * & ½
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What is rosehip oil?
Rosehip oil is a pressed seed oil that has been valued since ancient times for its many healing properties. It is derived from the flower species Rosa demascena.It can be classed as organic skin care. It is a popular ingredient in skincare due to its hydrating and anti-aging benefits. With high levels of essential fatty acids, especially omega-3 (linolenic acid) and omega-6 (linoleic acid), rosehip seed oil can effectively soften skin and improve skin barrier function. Rosehip oil is particularly helpful for those suffering from acne.
What are the benefits of rosehip oil?
This oil has strong antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant as well as anti-pigment properties. As an essential oil it can be used to treat conditions such as acne, dermatitis, as well as incorporating it into a botanical anti aging skin care routine. Note that other mainstream actives have more predictable outcomes. Nevertheless if you are into botanical naturopathic skincare, this may be worth considering.
What skin concerns can be addressed with this essential oil?
Acne: Research shows breakout-prone individuals are deficient in linoleic fatty acid. Rosehip oil topical application can increase the skin’s reservoir of essential fatty acids. The result? Less acne & blemishes.
Anti Inflammatory: Can be used to soothe the skin from inflammation caused by atopic eczema, acne, acne rosacea. Caution with frequent use as contact dermatitis may ensure.
Collagen protection: With high levels of ascorbic acid, rosehip seed oil can fight free-radicals in the skin, reducing UV destruction of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acids.
Collagen remodelling & production: Research shows that after eight weeks, rosehip oil will lead to a significant improvement in crow’s-feet wrinkles, the skin’s moisture level, and in elasticity (not the best paper, weak evidence in clinical dermatology). Retinoids provide much better results with reproducible studies.
Hyperpigmentation & skin brightening effects: Though reported to be useful in the management of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to acne, there are many better pigment correctors including botanical extracts from licorice, green tea, wild berries. The pigment reduction pathway for rosehip oil is due to the relative high levels of ascorbic acid. Stability has not been studied in detail.
Scar remodelling. Rosehip oil has been shown to improve surgical, acne, & traumatic scars. This oil contains high concentrations of vitamin A, B1, B2, B3, and K, rosehip oil is known for its exceptional regenerative and healing properties. The occlusive nature of oil may also account or it’s properties.
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Can rosehip oil treat all forms of acne?
Rosehip oil should ideally be used on inflammatory non-cystic acne spots, namely pustular & papular acne. As this is an oil, & potentially comedogenic, it should not be used on blackhead acne. Rose hip also contains a high amount of linoleic acid. This is an omega-6 fatty acid. People who are prone to acne have lower levels of linoleic acid, which alters the skin’s natural oil (sebum) production.
You can combine this with other acne fighting ingredients such as retinol or retinoids. A sensible skin care routine would be to use rosehip as a spot treatment if and when required, & apply retinoids or retinol to acne prone areas.
How do I Use Rosehip Oil?
Although formulated into many skincare products, rosehip oil can most often be found in its pure form. This can be applied directly onto the skin. This oil has high levels of ascorbic acid and is sensitive to light. It should be stored in a dark, amber-colored bottle to protect it from UV rays, which can diminish the potency of the product.
Rosehip oil can be used up to twice a day, morning and evening. The most popular way to use this oil by applying it directly to the skin or adding it to your favorite moisturizer. It is compatible with most skin care products.
Jessner TCA peel, one session
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👉This is a medium depth peel. Occasionally I prep with retinoic acid beforehand, but thin skin like this patient, RA is not needed. I scrub with acetone, then coat with 2-4 layers of Jesser. I then have a cup of coffee then come back to finish off with TCA at 35%
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😁Was having a friendly banter with my mentor & close friend @aprofphilipbekhor last night. Peels vs lasers. Why do I like peels? My chill out time. No loud noises apart from the patient's muffled screams 😱😱(joking). Despite the tech of lasers, I still like looking carefully at end points from peels. It is tactile, much like driving a manual car vs an automatic. Sure the latter is easier, but sometimes it’s the challenge to get the downshift perfectly matched, or the epidermis so evenly gray that the entire sheet slides from the dermis. It’s old school cool
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👊🏻Disclaimer: You do need to watch your peel patients more closely cf. NA laser patients, that is fact💯
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
#tca #jessner #jessnertca #chemicalpeels #dermatologist #dermatology #drdavinlim #skinrejuvenation
TCA peels are a simple way to rejuvenate skin. This picture is over a decade old, but I still enjoy peels over lasers (more tactile). It’ much like driving a older vintage car, it’s slower to get to your destination but the drive is more enjoyable🚘
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🔬Skin science: TCA can be applied as a superficial, medium (most common) & deep peel. In this case I employed it as a medium depth peel, to the upper papillary dermis. In some cases I combine it with Jessner for deeper penetration
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👉Downtime: 5- 8 days depending on the strength and coats
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😢Pain: Tolerable with topical application of numbing and skin cooling. I do give oral conscious sedation if deeper peeling
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👍🏻Good for: Skin type 1-2+, pigment, freckles, sun damage, solar keratosis, mild to moderate wrinkles, lentigos/ age spots
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👎🏼Not good for: Darker skin, deep wrinkles, melasma
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
#chemcialpeels #TCApeel #jessner #jessnerTCA #skinrejuvenation #skinlightening #skinbrightening #davinlim #dermatology #skinscience
Can Rosehip Oil replace moisturizer?
Rosehip oil can work as a great natural alternative for moisturizing. It has nourishing fatty acids, which along with water, is the main ingredient in most moisturizers. You can apply this oil directly on your skin.
What can be used with rosehip oil?
Most skin care actives can be combined with rosehip oil. As an antioxidant it can be used in the morning, whilst it can be employed in the evening as an anti-inflammatory agent or to repair skin barrier function.
Can I use retinol with rosehip oil?
Yes. You will read that rosehip oil doesn’t contain retinol but actually contains small concentrations of all-trans retinoic acid. The amount of vitamin A in rosehip oil is so low that adding a form of retinoid will not cause added toxicity.
Does this essential oil have any side effects?
Rosehip oil has very little side effects and is generally safe for all skin types. However, a patch test should always be performed before adding any new product to your daily routine. Contact dermatitis with this oil is lower compared to TTO (Tea Tree Oil). The comedogenic nature of this oil, along with other oils, can exacerbate blackhead acne.
Davin’s Protip on Rosehip Oil
My product knowledge is limited on the topic of rosehip oil. There are only a few (average) studies on this ingredient. From past clinical experience I do think this oil has a role in the treatment of inflamed acne lesions (zits, pustules not blackheads), as it is anti-inflammatory. Additionally it can be used to treat dermatitis & eczema as it has the potential to restore barrier function. Its role in the management of skin hyperpigmentation is questionable as there are better botanicals, including beta arbutin & licorice extract that do a better job. Regardless, if you are into natural skin care, be guided by your holistic naturopathic skin care expert. The antigenic profile of pure rosehip oil is lower than tea tree oil – possibly due to lower use of the former.
