Mandelic Acid
| Best used: In PM | Caution: Sensitive skin | Best for: Pigment |
| Comments: Useful exfoliant | Mode of action: Exfoliant | Science Score: ***** |
What are the skin benefits of Mandelic Acid?
Mandelic acid, much like other members of the alpha hydroxy acid family can exert powerful effects on the skin, namely:
- Chemical Exfoliation: Mandelic acid is a chemical exfoliant, meaning it removes layers of dead & dull skin cells through a reaction with the skin known as keratolysis
- Accelerates cell turnover: By dissolving skin cells, mandelic acid works to increase cell turnover, reducing the sun damage, acne, & blackheads
- Pigment corrector & skin brightener: Exfoliated skin is clear skin. This acid goes a step further, strengthening the skin so it stays bright with continued use.
- Unclogs Pores: Mandelic works itself deep into pores, penetrating deeper than other acids often used on blemish-prone skin. It further strengthens pores by increasing collagen production.
- Reduces hyperpigmentation: Increased cell turnover and exfoliating properties means that mandelic acid reduces the skin pigmentation & post acne pigmentation scars.
What is the science behind Mandelic Acid?
This acid is derived from almonds, and forms part of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family. Other members include lactic, citric & glycolic acid. Mandelic acid is the big brother of the AHA group & has the largest molecule size. This enables the acid to penetrate slowly & hence may give less side effects & is gentler on the skin compared to other AHAs.
How do I use Mandelic Acid?
Apply once per day, ideally in the PM. This acid can be diluted with other treatments to reduce strength until your skin develops tolerance. Do not attempt to use Mandelic Acid on broken skin or if your skin’s barrier is compromised – acne, dermatitis, irritated or angry skin. Consider performing a patch test prior to use.
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What ingredients can be used with Mandelic Acid?
Even though Mandelic is gentler on the skin compared to other acids, you should be careful as to the application & what you combine. As a rule, it is not advisable to combine AHAs, including Mandelic with ascorbic or retinoic acid (or a retinol).
Compatible & sensible ingredients to combine include- Hyaluronic Acid, Peptides, Green Tea, & most botanicals.
Why choose Mandelic Acid over other AHAs such as Glycolic or Lactic Acid?
The higher molecular weight of mandelic acid is larger than other alpha hydroxy acids. The size of mandelic acid molecule is twice the size of glycolic acid. This larger size allows mandelic acid to penetrate the skin more slowly which in turn makes it very gentle & better tolerated for sensitive skin patients.
Green tea & the fuzzy bits of skin care 🍵
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👉Anti Aging: Protection against UV damage: Green tea contains antioxidants & free radical scavengers, protecting your DNA & collagen. In reality you are better off with topicals such as vitamin C & ferulic acid
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👉Acne: Catechins & polyphenols are antibacterial & anti-inflammatory in nature. Reduces sebum production (oil), adding to antiacne effects & can potentially reduce enlarged pores. Many better ways to treat acne
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👉Dark circles: Caffeine found in green tea acts as a vasoconstrictor, modulating blood flow under the eyes. You can’t get cheaper eye rejuvenation than using 2 tea bags under your eyes
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👉Oily skin: Green tea has been shown to reduce sebum or oil production in laboratory conditions. Thus it can be a useful adjunct to medically prescribed retinoids, in theory
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👉Inflamed Skin; Green Tea can calm down inflamed & angry skin. Inflammatory skin conditions include rosacea, acne, psoriasis & dermatitis. Want some results? Chuck some topical steroid
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👉Drink tea for the taste & the potential systemic benefits. If you are serious about skincare, there are far better alternatives
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😎Davin Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#drdavinlim #dermatologistbrisbane #organicskincare #ecoskincare #greentea #tealife #teabagadermatologist #tea #healthytea
In the 5th decade & beyond, skin requires correction. Skincare is employed to maintain results AFTER procedures such as chemical peels or lasers.
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Lasers will correct years of photodamage, deep wrinkling & pigmentation.
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Dermal fillers are employed in this age group to enhance areas lacking in volume & projection, classic areas include the cheeks, eyes, temples & perioral areas (not lips but the surrounding areas including the jawline & jowls).
Patients in this age group will benefit from skin tightening including surgical & non-surgical.
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What is the best skin care in the 50s?
Formulated skin care is best in more mature skin. The foundation does not change, regardless of age.
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AM: Cleanser, antioxidants (CE, ferulic acid, resveratrol). SPF
PM: Cleanser, ingredient list depends on concerns.
* Retinol or prescription retinoids: to help reduce collagen loss & improve skin quality.
* Pigment correctors: to reduce sun induced & hormonal hyperpigmentation.
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What are the best procedures in the 50s?
Focus on improving your skin texture. This means correction of sunspots, pigmentation, creases & deeper wrinkles. You should balance this with addressing volume deficits & skin laxity.
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Skin texture can be rectified with lasers, including vascular, pigment, CO2 & erbium resurfacing.
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Skin laxity can be addressed with a combination of lasers, HIFU, RF, PDO threads & collagen stimulating fillers. The ideal combination depends on your skin’s chronological ageing, your ethnicity & goals.
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Skin volume can be addressed with either hyaluronic acid fillers (works faster) or collagen stimulating dermal fillers (works much slower, but last longer).
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#skincarecommunity #skincareobsessed #skincareaddict #skincarescience #skincareblog #skincaretips #dermatology #drdavinlim #internationaldermatologist #protectyourcollagen #dontcatchchylamidia #normalskin #brisbanedermatologist #50sskincare #collagen #dullskin #sunscreen #tcapeels #50
Know your routine and how it helps your skin 👉
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🔍Retinol is a Vitamin A analogue. This skincare active can reduce acne, blackheads, whiteheads, treat unwanted pigmentation & reduce photoaging . Brands include Aspect Doctor available at @theformulated. Discuss with your dermatologist if prescription retinoids are suitable for your skin type
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🔍AHAs include lactic acid, glycolic acid & citric acid. Drunk elephant makes a super potent mixture of skin acids with their baby facial line. Other recommendations include Neostrata , The Ordinary & The Inkey List. AHAs can improve #blackheads, fine lines & wrinkles as well as improve skin pigmentation. AHAs, like retinoids can make you more sun sensitive
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🍊Vitamin C or ascorbic acid forms part of the ABCs of skin care. C is an #antioxidant, protecting your skin from free radicals. ‘C’ can also build collagen & reduce pigmentation. Caution in patients with sensitive skin- rosacea I suggest starting at a lower concentration such as 10% & increasing SLOWLY as tolerated to 15, then 20%. Formulations will vary depending on the brand. C can be combined with E & Ferulic Acid to form CE Ferulic Acid, a potent antioxidant combination! @skinceuticals have a CE Ferulic available online and in store at @theformulated 🔥
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💬 What combinations of skin care do you love using?
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😎Davin Lim
Brisbane/Meanjin🇦🇺
@theformulated @cutis_dermatology
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#skincaretips #skincarecommunity #skincarebasics #dermatologistbrisbane #brisbanedermatologist #bestskincare #simpleskincaretips #skinacids #Skincare #dermatologist #acne
Stick to this simple skincare pyramid for best results
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👍🏻Prevention is with sunscreen. Spf 50 +, twice a day. Buy something you actually LIKE to use. IMO choosing a cosmetically elegant product with less sun protection is a compromise between application and SPF rating.
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🛡Protect with antioxidants including vitamin E, ferulic acid, ascorbic acid, #resveratrol, CoQ10, green tea & botanicals
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🍊Supplement with vitamins including retinol/retinoids, niacinamide & vitamin C
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🖌Correct (if needed) with anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, or anti-pigment
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💯Purposeful skincare saves time, money, and provides the best outcomes
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😎Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist
@drdavinlim
Brisbane🇦🇺
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#acneskincaretips #dermatology #drdavinlim #davinlim #theformulated #skincarescience #skincareroutine #simpleskincare #retinoltips #retinol #skincarebasics #instaskincare #skincarecommunity #cosmeticdoctor #dermatologist #dermatologistbrisbane #ascorbicacid #skinhealth #healthyskintips #healthyskin
What are the side effects of Mandelic Acid?
As with any AHA, there is a potential for mandelic acid to irritate your skin. The flip side? Unlike almost any other AHA, the potential is extremely low. Be careful of applying skin care acids such as AHAs, Salicylic & Retinoic acid if you have sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema. Increased photosensitivity can be seen with AHAs but not BHAs. Solution? Always remember your sunscreen!
Are higher strength formulations of Mandelic Acid better?
NO ! Some companies pack their product with 10% Mandelic Acid, however in the context of skin care actives, formulations matter! Using a high strength low pH formulation can be counterproductive, especially if you have sensitive skin (the number one reason one chooses Mandelic over Glycolic Acid in the first place)
What does a skin care routine with Mandelic Acid look like?
AM: Cleanser, Antioxidant, Sunscreen
PM: Cleanser, Vitamin A, B, C, or Mandelic Acid, or Pigment correctors
*Though not an absolute contraindication, extra caution should be noted when combining other acids, including retinoic, other AHAs & BHAs. Pigment correctors can be used with caution & patch testing.
**Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Be extra vigilant on photosensitive topicals including AHAs, retinol, retinoic acid & botanicals such as citrus juice & St John’s Wort. Use sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.
Davin’s ProTip on the use of Mandelic Acid
Probably the “go to” skin acid if you have sensitive skin. The larger molecular weight does slow down penetration into the deeper layers of the epidermis. Having said that, I still see many cases of rosacea that flare up with this AHA. I do think that a buffered formulation of 10% with a pH with a 3 in front of it is still too high. The very reason one chooses this acid over lactic or glycolic is to reduce the chances of skin sensitivity…
